The Apron in Squamish is filled with superb multi-pitch climbs the place friction slab expertise are important. Routes like Banana Peel 5.7, Slab Alley 5.8, Diedre 5.8, Over the Rainbow 5.9, Born Once more 5.10b, One Scoop with Scrumptious Dimples 5.10c and Unfinished Symphony 5.11b are only a few of the must-try strains. Though many of those climbs are of a modest grade, they shouldn’t be taken flippantly as they typically comprise runouts on slabby terrain.
For those who’re new to friction slab climbing and need to observe some methods earlier than heading up a extra committing route, we advocate you go to considered one of these 5 crags. These spots are nice for working your approach up within the grades and constructing confidence.
Whereas there are a couple of nice slabs to climb north of Squamish, in locations like Chek, they don’t mimic the low-angle climbing you’ll discover nearer to city. The Apron has pure friction smearing, which entails on the lookout for the most important and most textured crystals in your toes. The rock at Chek is a unique kind of granite, with far more edges to face on.
For those who’re new to Squamish otherwise you’re simply now taking a look at making an attempt out some slab, you’ll want to go to these 5 crags earlier than heading up excessive.
Squamish Slab
Shannon Springs Wall: Discovered close to Shannon Falls, the comparatively new Shannon Springs Wall is a high-quality crag of slabby crack and face climbs. The wall was developed by native route developer and snowboarding professional Nick McNutt in 2019 and 2020. Whereas the stone is kind of featured, you’ll nonetheless must belief some smears. The crag will get morning shade and sports activities an easy method.
The Nook Unit: The Nook Unit is one other nice slab wall addition by McNutt. It’s discovered on the bottom of the Papoose, simply to the left of the favored Rental Crack 5.6 two-pitch climb. In contrast to Shannon Springs, the crag will get afternoon shade. Blown Price range 5.8, Bidding Battle 5.9, and Stress Check 5.10a are nice fully-bolted friction slab climbs. The gear strains on the crag typically function bolted slab sections as nicely.
Stooge’s Slab: On the prime of the southern portion of the Malamute you’ll discover Stooge’s Slab, a small slab part of wall with nice stone and an excellent higher view. The routes Larry 5.9, Curly 5.9, and Moe 5.8 are glorious selections for top-roping or main. Larry and Curly are higher bolted than Moe. To TR these routes, it’s greatest to set an anchor and rap in to the small ledge at the beginning of the climbs.
Burgers and Fries: The Smoke Bluffs is filled with prime quality slab climbs, a lot of which may be simply top-roped. Burgers and Fries is one crag containing a lot of slab climbs of various grades. Many of those slab strains comprise critical run outs and thus top-roping is frequent – an effective way to observe your slab expertise. Different good Bluffs crags for working your smears embody Free and Simple, Parking Lot Wall, Funarama, and Second Avenue (when clear).
AMO Wall: When you’re beginning to really feel cozy, an incredible multi-pitch space to take a look at earlier than leaping on an even bigger Apron route is the AMO Wall in Shannon Falls. It incorporates a bunch of very slabby routes as much as 4 pitches lengthy, most within the decrease grades. The friction smearing you do right here interprets very nicely to simpler Apron slab climbs. Some pitches at AMO have run-outs however most have first rate bolt spacing.
The place to Discover Topos: Detailed topos of Stooge’s Slab, Burgers and Fries, and AMO Wall may be discovered within the guidebooks Squamish Choose or Squamish Rockclimbing. Shannon Springs and The Nook Unit are newer crags and aren’t at present present in any printed information. Yow will discover free topos of the 2 partitions on Quickdraw Publications or Sea to Sky Climbing.
Slab Climbing Suggestions
