In late August and September, Slovenians Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev climbed 4 new routes within the Indian Himalaya. One route was the primary ascent of Lalung I (6,243 m) in pure alpine model over 5 days by Petek and Verdev known as Right here Comes the Solar at ED M6+ AI5+.
For his or her climb, they gained this yr’s Metal Angels, a Russian alpine climbing award for girls that began in 2008. Petek is printed beneath courtesy of the Alpine Affiliation of Slovenia:
Earlier than the expedition, on-line search outcomes indicated that our goal, the Lalung Valley, was nonetheless principally unexplored. Our sense of its remoteness turned even clearer on the Indian Mountaineering Basis (IMF) in Delhi, the place we had been those telling the workers concerning the existence of sure peaks within the Lalung Valley. The truth of what this meant for us as climbers turned extra tangible with every passing day we spent within the valley.
We set off on August 26 along with eighteen native porters from the Pensi La Go, the doorway to the valley, and rapidly realized that even they might not present a lot info. Initially, they’d informed us that our base camp can be at 5,000 meters, however we quickly realized that was only a fast reply with none actual benefit. After simply three hours of strolling, we discovered a great spot for base camp with clear, operating water at 4100 meters. In fact we went to verify for different areas larger up, however we discovered solely soiled water and unsuitable terrain.
Having the bottom camp at this location meant we’d have so as to add an additional day or two to the approaches to Lalung I and the neighboring peaks.
As soon as our base was arrange, our chef Lobzang, his assistant Thuksaj, their “boss” and resident entertainer Lobzang, and officer Freni stayed with us. We developed a really pleasant bond with Freni throughout our keep. However little did we all know that our base camp was additionally dwelling to bears.
The day after our arrival we explored the valley with our officer. Regardless of unstable climate, we managed to cowl 20 km of moraine and glacial terrain, which took us a complete day. Cloudy climate prevented us from getting have a look at the faces of the mountains on the far finish of the valley, which had been our main goal.
After a day of relaxation, we continued with our acclimatization, benefiting from the patchy good climate. Every workforce slept at an altitude of least 5,000 meters. Earlier than we moved as much as the superior base camp (ABC) at 4,800 meters, we had our first night-time bear go to, because it sniffed round for meals. After the disagreeable encounter, all 4 of us relocated to ABC, which was bear-free. After arriving at ABC, Lalung I made its first temporary look, trying really majestic and boosting the motivation of the Patricija & Anja workforce even additional. The valley is surrounded by different peaks, a few of that are nonetheless untouched and unnamed (6,274m, 6,048m, 6,197m, 6,067m). Together with Lalung I, there are additionally Lalung II and III, and the beforehand climbed Chiling I and II to the far proper. We had a detailed have a look at the 6,197m peak, which Ana & Urša had been learning on photographs from the 2022 expedition, however this yr, the situations weren’t excellent because it had solely a light-weight dusting of snow.
Resulting from Urša’s altitude issues, she and Ana retreated again to base camp after two days, the place they needed to cope with a full-on bear saga with the cooks and officer. After greater than ten unwelcome night-time visits, Patricija’s ripped tent, heaps of stolen meals, and a knocked-down bathroom, they managed to scare off the bears with hearth and loved a couple of peaceable nights. In the meantime, regardless of no climate forecasts, Urša and Ana managed to climb two new routes on a close-by granite north face. The climbs weren’t with out their challenges; on the primary route, promising climate gave solution to snowfall, forcing them onto an alternate exit, which finally turned out to be fairly satisfying. On their second route, they adopted the deliberate line to the highest of the face and the climate was extra favorable.
After reaching ABC, Patricija and I packed our rucksacks for a multi-day journey and after a full-day method over a difficult glacier, we lastly reached the bottom of the japanese ridge of Lalung I.
The forecast known as for a promising climate window however on the second day on the ridge, we had been pressured to arrange our tent in the midst of the day and huddle inside on account of a snow storm, which lasted your complete third day. On the fourth day, we woke as much as a sunny morning and climbed all day and late into the night time, nonetheless not reaching the summit. The fifth day on the ridge required much more dedication and willpower. At 1:30 am, we climbed the ultimate blended pitches and settled in for a relaxation. In a second of drained carelessness, the wind blew away our tent poles, however by then we’d grown accustomed to bivying on the wall so sleeping in a bivy sack didn’t upset us an excessive amount of. The following morning was foggy with diffuse mild, making it laborious to navigate the unfamiliar terrain resulting in the summit of Lalung I. We lastly reached the highest at 9 am after climbing some simpler snow slopes.
We nonetheless had the lengthy descent down the western ridge and onto the glacier forward of us. We descended the snowy ridge and made 5 rappels down the north face to succeed in the glacier at 6:30 pm. It took us one other eight hours to reach again at ABC. The following day, we descended to base camp and simply earlier than stepping off the moraine, the sight of three silhouettes – Ana, Urša, and Freni – introduced smiles to our drained faces. With out realizing about one another’s whereabouts, we met on the good spot and had been overwhelmed with pleasure.
After returning to base camp, the bear scenario had calmed down, however all of us agreed it was finest for the animals and for us to depart as quickly as attainable. Our expedition ended with our departure from base camp on September 17, after we made our solution to the village of Tungri. From there, it was a nerve-wracking drive on a half-finished highway to Leh, the place we spent the final days of the journey resting and stress-free.
New routes:
Aug. 31: 5,332m peak; Connection; VI-/V-IV, 1,400m, 15 hrs. (Patricija Verdev and Anja Petek)
Sept. 10: 5,332m peak; BC (Bear camp); V-/IV-III, 800m, 8 hrs. (Ana Baumgartner and Urša Kešar)
Sept. 13: 5,332m peak; Calm earlier than the storm?; V+/IV, 670m, 6 hrs. (Ana Baumgartner and Urša Kešar)
Sept. 9-14: Lalung I (6,243m), Right here comes the solar; ED, M6+, AI5+; 2,000m (5 climbing days). (Patricija Verdev (A0) and Anja Petek)
