Three Sisters Traverse Notes – Will Gadd – Athlete, Speaker, Information

Date: thirteenth September 2017

Three Sisters Traverse Notes.
Will Gadd, Sarah Hueniken, July 4, 2017
Notes written September 12, 2017. Massive due to Ben and Cia Gadd for the pickup, pizza and beer!

The Three Sisters outline the southeast skyline of Canmore like a black etch-a-sketch line throughout a blue sky. In the event you’re a climber the logical factor to do is begin on the looker’s left, or north finish of the traverse and head up and over the Little, Center and Massive sisters by way of technical climbing routes earlier than dropping down off the bottom of the Massive Sister to the Spray Lakes dam. This summer time Sarah Hueniken and I lastly did it, and I wrote the under to share some data with different individuals who may be .

Right here’s the abstract: The Little Sister is a nonetheless critical, however actually under-rated and enjoyable climb if in case you have the trad and choss abilities. I prefer it, and would do it once more. The Center Sister took a lot of the abilities I’ve amassed in 30 years of climbing within the Rockies to climb efficiently, and I’ve no want to do it once more. The rock on the Center Sister is difficult to get gear in, very unfastened down low, and until you’re psyched to climb 5.10+ on dangerous gear and worse rock (and who’s actually?) then you might not take pleasure in it. I might not inform anybody it’s a worthwhile outing. The entire profitable (three up to now?) ascents of the traverse and Center Sister have been completed by these with many years of expertise climbing 5.11 trad or tougher on Rockies choss. There aren’t any fastened belays, and retreat/descent could be troublesome and not using a stable rack of pins to depart. Whereas I led all of it free with no pins, I additionally felt it was typically a superb place to get harm with out a lot actual climbing pleasure. A number of of the belays took quite a lot of creativity to construct. Deliver a pin rack in case you resolve to go. The Massive Sister is extra affordable, however in case you take the direct line you’ll be climbing quite a bit tougher than 5.3. The “5.10 A1” grade doesn’t do the Center Sister or the traverse justice—you’ll wish to be climbing quite a bit tougher than that, and stable on old-school Rockies trad climbing (pins, runout choss, and so forth).

So, appears to be like nice, however till somebody does a extra trendy line up the Center Sister it’s simply not one thing I’d suggest. Sadly, Richard Boruta, a popular native biathlon coach, husband and pop to 2 youthful children, just lately died when his rap anchor reportedly failed whereas rappelling off the Center Sister. He, his spouse and two buddies have been trying to do the traverse ranging from the Massive Sister aspect, and rappelling down the technical rock climbs. About midway down Richard’s pure anchor failed, leaving the remainder of his crew with out ropes however alive.  Kananaskis Nation Public Security have been capable of long-line in after which climb two pitches to achieve the three folks earlier than night time, and left a couple of bolts within the course of. I’ve marked these on the topo under. Please take the topo with the belief that it was drawn two months after we climbed the route, and it’s an enormous chunk of stone.

I want I’d written this route report earlier than his crew went up there—they reportedly anticipated extra fastened anchors and higher rock. After we climbed it we discovered zero fastened anchors and quite a lot of very dangerous rock. I’m scripting this now to shed some gentle on the Center Sister and Traverse, there’s not a lot information on the market and what there kinda misses the purpose of the expertise to me.

The lengthy model:

In July of 2016 the extraordinarily motivated Sarah Hueniken and I attempted the traverse for the primary time, however retreated in a storm after climbing the Little Sister and rappelling right down to the Little/Center Col. From the col you may stroll right down to the east and out Stewart Creek simply sufficient. It’s also potential to go right down to Three Sisters creek. Notice: Lots of the instructions in David P Jones’ “Central Rockies Information” are switched not just for the Three Sisters climbs but in addition different climbs. Don’t depend on the instructions.

Little sister: A worthwhile climb!

5 hours to summit from the automobile in case you’re fast, one other 2-3 down in case you’re quick. In all probability ten+ hours for many events.

The Littler Sister provides typically good climbing on first rate rock, particularly in case you keep on route. It’s runout in locations and requires some cautious climbing, however I prefer it and would even information it, so it’s protected sufficient in case you’re good with trad gear and competent at chossing.

One of the best strategy is up Three Sisters Creek (Park as you’ll for the Highline Bike path on the finish of the Three Sisters Boulevard and comply with that till you be part of the creek after ten minutes or so, cross the creek and comply with an outdated highway up on the west/river left aspect) till the outdated dam, at which level you break left or east. Head up and east on an inexpensive (and probably now improved for mountain biking path?) for a couple of hundred meters, then bushwhack proper/south/up for a couple of hundred meters to realize the rounded crest of the spur/ridge closest to the valley that results in the higher shoulder of the Little Sister. There’s a well-flagged path for nearly all of this ascent, it’s nice going for a comparatively obscure Rockies outing. Observe this path till you escape above treeline, then go round a rock tower on scree on the suitable (west) aspect till you’re on the base of the shoulder on the Little Sister.

Stroll round to the east (looker’s left) onto the north/freeway face and begin both up the crack/chimeny rig, or up the face to the left of it. One pitch with a little bit of a slab transfer will get you to a artistic belay to the left of the crack on prime of a small buttress, one or two shorter pitches will get you to a six-foot ledge. Traverse left or east right here a methods then again up the place it appears to be like straightforward.  There are some outdated pins and so forth. right here, together with a station on the left simply earlier than the ultimate nook. There are a couple of outdated pins and varied rap stations alongside the way in which too. Beware the pins, I pulled one out by hand. Pins are to not be trusted until you will have a pin hammer. If you pull onto the large extensive shoulder shoulder there might be some tempting corners and cracks up and left on a direct line, however this isn’t the road. On our first try on the traverse we climbed the direct line, roughly 5.10 locker fingers up a pleasant nook, little bit of runout slabbing, a few pitches onto the ridge after which scrambling or quick pitching to the summit. Whereas enjoyable and thrilling, this isn’t the proper line, and wildly out of character with the 5.5ish commonplace. For the proper route, stroll throughout (south) the shoulder and down into the principle gully to the south for a few hundred meters. There’s some very nice water-washed rock and some pins on the LEFT aspect of this gully that take you round a steep step and on up.  Good enjoyable climbing. Then beat up the rubble and be part of the ridge, few gaps and steps solved both with soloing or quick pitches (we short-pitched), summit.

Descent from the Little Sister: You possibly can downclimb and rap the steep bits the way in which you got here up, which conveniently places you again on the automobile. You’ll want to interchange tat and probably beef up the present anchors in case you go down the climbing route. However most individuals rappel down into the col between and Little and Center, then exit Stewart Creek. The rap anchors down the south aspect to the col have reportedly just lately been changed with good bolts. The outdated raps have been OK with a single 80M rope, however not so nice with a single 60 (opposite to the books, a 50M rope won’t be a lot enjoyable). With something lower than an single 80M rope you’ll find yourself down-climbing and messing about on chossy slabs, which may be enjoyable in case you have been into that type of factor. After a couple of (three I believe?) rappels break skier’s left (east) up by a small notch. Don’t go straight down into the steep terrain under you at this level, it seemingly will turn out to be concerned and there aren’t rap anchors. General I’d say the descent again down the climbing route is quicker because it places you again at your automobile as a substitute of wandering round by the Stewart Creek Golf course, however the descent right down to the col is healthier organized at this level and easier, in addition to safer to do general.

From the top of the rappels climb straight throughout the “dragon’s again” to the bottom of the Center Sister. I say, “Climb,” as there is no such thing as a non-technical method to join the 2 options. In the event you’re not snug soloing this then it’s in all probability a wonderful time to name it a day and head down, it solely will get tougher greater.

Center Sister: Appears good from afar, however removed from good up shut.

Notice—we took a considerably totally different line than is present in Bow Valley Rock PDF.

P1. 5.9 From the bottom of the Center proper on the ridge climb up about 30M with minimal gear to a pleasant belay ledge (not 10a, possibly straightforward 5.9). If this appears enjoyable to you then you definitely’re in the suitable place for extra of the identical however tons tougher.

P2. 5.10 R With small wire nuts you may free climb just about straight up, pulling a break and utilizing a suppose crack and dealing typically up and left. If somebody have been to kind this pitch out with a direct line on bolts it could be much more enjoyable.

P3 or 3-4 give or take. The following lengthy (or two shorter) pitch begin on the east or looker’s proper aspect of the ridge earlier than re-joining it, enjoyable climbing. You may even see among the rescue bolts from the 2017 rescue right here, they’re positioned for rescue functions and never climbing, however are reportedly helpful.

P5 5.10 was not enjoyable. I went up with first rate gear at first, tried to go proper, didn’t appear seemingly, went left. Shit rock, dangerous gear, large fall potential. Constructing a belay took two nuts, a flake, and a small cam tied collectively. Compact rock. Get pleasure from.

P6 takes you’re taking to the ridge by way of extra unfastened rock and run-out 5.9 or 5.10. In the event you may keep proper or get on The Ecstasy and the Agony that may in all probability be higher? Belay at {a partially} sheltered alcove on the left for the nook pitch. Work for shelter from rockfall right here, you might want it…

P7, 5.9 There’s an historic POS bolt within the nook. On the prime of the nook on the left aspect there’s a Jenga pile of blocks that may kill your belayer in case you pull on them. Take care.

P8-summit Up. Scramble and possibly a brief pitch in right here.

This could possibly be a reasonably cool route if somebody went up there and actually constructed it. Cleaned the unfastened blocks, put stations in the place they have been protected against rockfall, it could be neat to have a cool traverse near city. That’ll in all probability wind the, “Each rock is sacred” crew up, however I believe it could be cool.

Deliver a pin rack in case you plan to retreat, wish to help both of the roofs, or typically wish to make life simpler for your self. There aren’t any fastened belay anchors nor many pins, and a lot of the in-situ gear is is historic and to not be trusted. NEVER TRUST EXISTING PINS IN LIMESTONE, THEY ARE NOT RELIABLE. Even with a pin hammer outdated pins are suspect at finest–you might finish loosening them by whacking them.

There’s an initially good climbing path from the highest of the Center Sister that breaks again down left (east) into Stewart Creek, however the path down Stewart Creek is just about destroyed from the flooding. It’s OK boulder-hopping now. Getting again throughout the Golf Course is annoying.

From the col to the highest of the center sister was about 6 hours for us. Simple strolling from the highest of the Center.

Massive Sister

Begin left and you may hold it to low fifth class for a lot of the climb. The place it steepens you may reportedly bust out left on the large ledge after which again proper, however this appeared weak and bizarre trying so we went proper onto the northwest face in a super-cool zig-zag pitch at 5.10 with good rock and first rate gear. A neat little overhang protects the exit, however is easier than it appears to be like. Once more, a bit prep and time and this might be a extremely enjoyable route, the rock is healthier than the Center and the positioning is admittedly cool.

From the highest of the Center Sister throughout the Massive Sister and right down to the automobile was about 5 hours for us

Descent:

It’s a great distance again to the Spray Lakes highway. Organize a pickup on the outdated quarry straight throughout from the Spray Lakes West dam/campground turnoff.. Ensure NOT to descend into the gully to the left of the ridge; it tends to suck you in, and the underside of it’s a PITA. Keep skier’s proper, and if you find yourself with a small cliff band on skier’s proper slightly below treeline cease descending and climb up by it (there are a couple of straightforward breaks), or retrace yours steps a bit and get again on prime of the ridge. I went down this gully on a recon mission of the descent, and it’s annoying in case you’re good in your toes and at downclimbing, or would require a rap or two in case you’re not. The path sucks too. Go down the ridge…

Good luck. I believe we obtained a bit off-route on the Center Sister and wasted time by not brining pins. The entire traverse took us 16 hours automobile to automobile. Deliver a lot of water in case you do go for this, it’s dry and sizzling up there. No one calls the peaks by their so-called “Religion, Hope, Charity” names, it’s Little, Center and Massive.

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