Seb Bouin was just lately projecting a brand new laborious sport route on the well-known Hanshelleren collapse Flatanger, Norway. The road hyperlinks Transfer 5.15b/c into Thor’s Hammer 5.14d/15a. Adam Ondra made the FA of Transfer again in 2013, suggesting a grade of 5.15b/c. Bouin repeated the road in 2019 and urged a grade of soppy 5.15c, believing the path to be tougher than Ondra’s Change 5.15c. Thor’s Hammer was established by Ondra in 2012, with grade assessments starting from 5.14d to five.15a.
Transfer Integral is a harder model of Nordic Marathon 5.15b/c, a link-up Bouin FA’d in 2022. Nordic Marathon hyperlinks Nordic Plumber 5.14b into Thor’s Hammer 5.14d/15a, making a monster 430-foot pitch. Transfer Integral sees Nordic Plumber 5.14b being changed by Change 5.15b/c, making the link-up considerably harder. As soon as climbed, will or not it’s 5.15c or 5.15d?
For his Norway journey this yr, Bouin had three projecting choices: Ondra’s Silence 5.15d, Jakob Schubert’s B.I.G. 5.15d, or the unclimbed Transfer Integral venture. He gave three tries on B.I.G. however realized the crux holds had been too moist for productive projecting. He subsequent tried the Transfer Integral venture, and made fast progress.
“As I felt good on it, I rapidly tried from the bottom,” stated Bouin on Instagram. “On my third climbing day, I fell on the final crux of the entire route (80m of laborious climbing). I used to be actually shocked to get that top so rapidly. Passing Transfer, which is already [5.15b/c], doing cruxes one and two of pitch 2, after which falling not too badly on crux 3 on my third climbing day was a efficiency in itself for me. After this try, I used to be type of on a excessive for nearly two hours. It was so lengthy and intense.
“I did Transfer on the sting. I didn’t bear in mind the methods from earlier than. I used to be nearly falling on each laborious transfer. However someway, it labored. I used to be completely carried out after that, however the energy got here again after a couple of minutes. Crux by crux, I used to be feeling okay. This effort may already be an excellent [5.15c]. I used to be psyched about making an attempt this line throughout the journey.
“Nevertheless, I couldn’t handle to return to that time afterward. The route is so lengthy that my energy drained actually rapidly after a couple of days of making an attempt it. I attempted to coach, which helped a bit, however I do know I’ve to take breaks when making an attempt such an extended route. The situations had been additionally fairly dangerous for nearly 10 days (humid/moist on the final pitch). I needed to skip a couple of climbing days. So, I made a decision to take a break from this venture and prepare for a couple of days. It’s the primary time in my life I’ve carried out that, and I’m to see if it really works. To be continued…”
You’ll be able to watch Bouin climb Transfer 5.15b/c and Nordic Marathon 5.15b/c within the two movies embedded beneath.
Seb Bouin on Transfer 5.15b/c
Seb Bouin on Nordic Marathon 5.15b/c
