On the Paris Olympics, you may need observed Adam Ondra sporting a pair of climbing footwear that you just had by no means seen earlier than. This model new mannequin from La Sportiva is the Ondra Comp, an progressive shoe designed for high-performance indoor climbing. After a lot anticipation, the shoe is now available in shops all through Canada and the US.
La Sportiva labored with Ondra in designing the shoe, which goals to be the proper software for contemporary indoor bouldering – versatile and delicate for smearing and smedging on slippery volumes, whereas nonetheless possessing the rigidity for edging on small footholds. To drag off this seemingly unimaginable problem, the Ondra Comp options some model new tech.
The magic of the Ondra Comp comes from its three-layered half-sole. In the course of the forefoot is an oval-shaped pad of SenseGrip, a brand new know-how developed by La Sportiva. This squishy, pliable materials deforms and wraps round no matter it’s pressed in opposition to. Surrounding this SenseGrip pad beneath the rim of the toebox is an arch of 1.1 mm LaSpoFlex midsole, offering much-needed rigidity for standing on edges. The only real is accomplished with ultra-sticky Vibram XS Grip2 rubber, 3.5 mm in thickness.
Apart from the progressive half-sole, the highest of the Ondra Comp incorporates some tech value noting. It’s lined in texturized sticky rubber, making the shoe a toe-hooking powerhouse. There’s even one other pad of SenseGrip beneath the rubber on the highest of the foot for additional padding and moldability for sticking on marginal toehooks. The shoe’s low-volume heel is unimaginable for these with comparatively slender heels, showing to be comparable in design to heels discovered on the Futura or Answer Comp.
I just lately received the prospect to check out the Ondra Comp. I attempted it out totally on plastic, but additionally on rock as properly. For sure, it is without doubt one of the most original footwear I’ve ever worn. For being so high-performance, it’s remarkably comfy. It has a suction cup, sock-like match, and it actually seems and looks like one thing from the longer term. Climbing in them is just a little unusual a primary, and it takes a couple of periods to get used to. However after this slight readjustment interval, they’re hands-down my favorite shoe for smearing and smedging on plastic.
The SenseGrip pad is flexible, versatile, and wildly delicate. To the contact, it feels marshmallow-y gentle. It nearly looks like you could possibly puncture via the underside of the shoe together with your fingers. When climbing, you’ll be able to learn the slightest of options with the underside of your foot, discovering the proper spot to switch your weight on volumes or slopey jibs.
The shoe bends and articulates all the way in which to close the tip of the toe, permitting you to optimize the purpose of contact between the shoe and plastic (or rock). Somewhat than having one major hinge level, the shoe bends wherever it’s compelled to, permitting the foot to stretch out and maximize friction with the wall. If you happen to’re used to sporting downsized semi-stiff or stiff footwear, the Ondra Comp will expose how weak your toes are.
Whereas the SenseGrip pad is tremendous squishy, the rim of the toe field is fortunately stiff, with an outlined border between the SenseGrip pad and LaSpoFlex midsole. For such a gentle development, the shoe can stand confidently on some very tiny edges. Let me be clear although: the Ondra Comp is unquestionably not the precise shoe for sustained edging. It really works simply wonderful for a small edge or two on a boulder downside or steep route, nevertheless it’s terribly fatiguing to put on on lengthy edgy routes.
The Ondra Comp nearly looks like dishonest when toe hooking. The highest of the shoe, being lined in extremely textured sticky rubber, sticks to even essentially the most marginal toehook. And since the shoe is so versatile, you’ll be able to bend your toes backwards with ease to safe the hook. The SenseGrip pad on the highest of the foot possible helps in sustaining friction, however what’s much more noticeable is the way it makes what would in any other case be a painful hook extra comfy.
I truly actually loved the Ondra Comp on rock exterior. It’s not appropriate for each utility, however in some area of interest conditions, it is perhaps one of the best software for the job. I don’t prefer it for crack climbs or vertical faces; however on smeary, slabby terrain the place sensitivity is of utmost significance, it excels. It’s additionally superb on overhanging terrain, notably when the footholds are oddly formed, irregular, smeary, or smedgy. Its flexibility permits you toe-in and drive energy via your ft whereas concurrently conforming to the form of the foothold – whether or not that be a granite crystal or limestone nub.
Over time, the Ondra Comp experiences a novel put on sample. An outlined ridge of wear and tear begins to develop on the only real rubber the place the rim of the LaSpoFlex midsole meets the SenseGrip pad. I’d be weary of utilizing the shoe on very sharp or spikey rock, as I imagine this might exasperate this subject. The rubber on the highest of the foot will get just a little chewed up over time from toe-hooking, however that’s to be anticipated.
As for sizing, I put on the Ondra Comp in the identical measurement that I put on the Answer, Answer Comp, and Skwama. The Ondra Comp is at present being supplied in each half-size from measurement 33 to 46.
