The Piolets d’Or committee has launched an inventory of great ascents from 2023, from which a couple of will likely be chosen to obtain this 12 months’s award. The jury consists of Jack Sort out, Lise Billon, Mikel Zabalza, Genki Narumi, Toni Gutsch, Aleš Česen and Enrico Rosso. The award ceremony will happen from Dec. 8 to 11 in San Martino di Castrozza, Italy.
This checklist of climbs was organized by Lindsay Griffin, the senior editor for the American Alpine Journal, Dougald MacDonald, editor in chief of the American Alpine Journal, and Rodolphe Popier of Membership Alpin Francais. In response to them, this checklist is a “collection of ascents which are classed as noteworthy and adventurous inside their significantly régions, involving new routes that had been accomplished roughly in steady alpine type.”
NORTH AMERICA
GREENLAND
Oqatssut Wall
First ascent of Fram (700m of climbing, M5 A3 C1, capsule type) on the southwest face of Oqatssut Wall, Qaqugdlugssuit peninsula, from February 10-19, by Paweł Hałdaś and Marcin Tomaszewski (Poland). Descended route. First Greenland large wall in winter.
Mythics Cirque
First full traverse of the Mythics Cirque, Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord, through Circus Maximus (16 summits as much as 1,451m, round half new, 6c), from August 1-3, by Felix Bub and Martin Feistl (Germany).
Ataatup Tower (ca 1,350m)
First ascent of The Psychological Breakdown (565m of climbing, 7b/7b+ R) on the northeast face of Ataatup Tower (ca 1,350m), Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord, from August 17-18, by Michelle Dvorak (USA), Martin Feistl (Germany), and Fay Manners (UK). Traversed mountain.
USA – ALASKA
Augustin Peak (2,621m)
First ascent of the north buttress (1,400m, Alaskan 5 AI4) of Augustin Peak (2,621m) within the Kichatna Mountains, on April 20, by Nelson Neirinck, Kurt Ross, and Michael Telstad (USA). Traversed mountain.
Rise and Shine (ca 2,400m) / Citadel (2,597m)
First ascent of Rise and Shine (ca 2,400m), Kichatna Mountains, through Superfly Couloir (500m, AI5 M6 A2) on the east face, on April 20, by Joseph Passion and Zach Lovell (USA). First ascent of the northwest face of the Citadel (2,597m), Kichatna Mountains, through Borealis Face (800m, 85°), on April 19, by Joseph Passion and Zach Lovell (USA).
Cemetery Spire (2,316m)
First ascent of the southwest face of Cemetery Spire (2,316m), Kichatna Mountains, through Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+), from June 4-5, by Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo (Italy). Some bolts positioned for anchors on the descent.
Mount Huntington (3,731m)
First ascent of Technicolour Superdream (1,300m, 700m of latest floor, VI AI5+ M6+ A2) on the west face of Mount Huntington (3,731m), Central Alaska Vary, from April 19-21, by Zach Colbran and Grant Stewart (Canada), and Dane Steadman (USA). Descended similar face.
Mount Dickey (2,909m)
First ascent of Goal for the Bushes (1,525m, AI6 X M6) on the east face of Mount Dickey (2,909m), from March 31-April 2, by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau (USA).
Abercrombie Mountain (2,145m)
First ascent of Moonlight Mile (1,610m, AI4 M4) on the southwest face of Abercrombie Mountain (2,145m) within the Chugach Mountains, on April 1, by August Franzen and Simon Frez-Albrecht (USA). Traversed Mountain.
LOWER 48
Mount Morrison (3,731m)
First ascent of Troll Toll (600m, 16 pitches, WI3 M5/6) on the northeast face of Mount Morrison (3,731m) within the Sierra Nevada, on April 14-15, by Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, and Vitaliy Musiyenko (USA).
Bearhat Mountain (2,648m)
New route on the northwest face (1,210m, WI4 M5) of Bearhat Mountain (2,648m), Montana Glacier Nationwide Park, from November 29-30 (37 hours spherical journey), by Brent Anderson and Dallin Carey (USA).
CANADA
Baffin – Coronation Glacier
Two one-day first ascents from the Coronation Glacier in July by Noah Benson and James Klemmensen (USA): Salami Change Fee (800m, V, 5.10), and Escape from Azkaban (650m, IV, 5.10+).
Waddington Vary – Serra Peaks (3,650m)
First east to west traverse of the Serra Peaks (1-5; highest – Serra 4 – 3,650m), involving two new routes and climbing as much as 5.7 AI3 M6, by Matteo Agnoloni and Ethan Berman (Canada) and Sebastien Pelletti (Australia). Three days; 5 days glacier to glacier.
Asia
PAKISTAN
Tirich Mir (7,708m)
First ascent of The Secret Line (2,200m) on the north face of Tirich Mir (7,708m) within the Hindu Kush, from July 17-23, by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima (Japan). Approached over a excessive col leaving 4 ropes mounted after which traversed the mountain.
Ghamubar Zom V (6,400m)
First ascent of Ghamubar Zom V (6,400m) within the Hindu Raj through the northwest ridge (2,000m, 5.9 M5 90°), from September 16-19, by Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida, and Yudai Suzuki (Japan). Descended route.
Baintha Kabata (6,290m)
First ascent of The Alien Face (800m, 7a M5) – southwest face to south ridge – on Baintha Kabata (6,290m) within the Panmah Muztagh, from July 26-27, by François Cazzanelli, Mateo Della Bordella (each Italy) and Silvan Schüpbach (Switzerland). Descended route.
Kharut II (6,824m)
First ascent of Kharut II (6,824m) within the Baltoro Muztagh through the west-northwest ridge (1,200m), on July 18, by Koldo Zubimendi (Basque Nation), solo. Descended route.
Yernamandu Kangri (7,163m)
First ascent of Yernamandu Kangri (7,163m) within the Masherbrum Vary by the southwest face (3,000m, 70°), from July 13-15, by Simon Messner (Italy) and Martin Sieberer (Austria). Descended route.
Drifika (6,447m)
First ascent of the south face and southwest spur of Drifika (6,447m) within the Tagas Mountains, after which ski descent (ca 1,300m), throughout in the future in Might by Giovanni Zaccaria (Italy).
Kapura Primary (6,544m)
A brand new line up the west face (1,500m, M5) of Kapura Primary (6,544m) within the Tagas Mountains, stopping on the summit ridge northwest of the very best level after two bivouacs, in August, by Jakub Kácha and Martin Sankot (Czech Republic). Rappelled route.
INDIA
White Sapphire (6,040m)
First ascent of Sensible Blue (850m, AI3 M7+ 80°) on White Sapphire (6,040m) within the Kishtwar Himalaya, from October 5-7, by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, and Hayden Wyatt (USA). Descended route.
Flat Prime (6,100m)
First ascent of Tomorrow Is One other Day (1,400m, ED, 5c A2 WI4 M6) on the north face of Flat Prime (6,100m) within the Kishtwar Himalaya, from October 2-7, by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, and Nathan Monard (Switzerland). Traversed mountain.
Amaiur Peak (5,760m)
First ascent of Amaiur Peak (5,760m) through the northeast ridge (750m, V+ M6), on July 16, by Joseba Iztueta and Ekaitz Maiz (Basque Nation). Descended route.
Jamyang Ri (5,800m)
First ascent of Nelim Lam (700+m of climbing, 5.12 A0) on the west face and northwest arete of Jamyang Ri (5,800m), Ladakh, on July 21, by Moritz Sigmund and Patrick Tirler (Italy). Descended completely different line on similar face.
Neverseen Tower (5,750m)
First ascent of Wind of Silence (500m, 6b+) on the south-southeast face of Neverseen Tower (5,750m), Himachal Pradesh, on September 20 and 21, by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jerome Perruquet, and Francesco Ratti (Italy). Descended route. Just a few ropes mounted on first day.
Meru South, Central Prime (ca 6,600m)
First ascent of Goldfish (M6+ A1) on the southeast face of Meru South, Central Prime (ca 6,600m), Western Garhwal, from Might 10-13, by Simon Gietl (Italy), Mathieu Maynadier (France), and Roger Schäli (Switzerland). Descended route.
NEPAL
Surma Sarovar (6,605m GPS)
First ascent of Surma Sarovar (6,605m GPS) through northwest face (2,000m), from October 23-26, by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden (UK). Traversed mountain.
Dragpoche (6,575m)
First ascent of Dragpoche (6,575m), Langtang Himal, through Between Faries and Unicorns (1,100m, ED, M4+ WI5) on the southeast face, from October 28-29, by Oswaldo Freire and Joshua Jarrin (Ecuador). Descended route. Potential new line on the northwest face of Ganchempo (6,375m), Jugal Himal — Chilly Remedy (700m, AI4+) — on November 3 by Oswaldo Freire and Joshua Jarrin (Ecuador). Descended route.
Goldum (6,623m)
First recognized ascent of Goldum (6,623m), Langtang Himal, through the north-northeast ridge (85°), from April 10-11, after beforehand establishing a excessive camp, by Jeong Il-hoon, Park Jong-young, and Son Ho-seong (Korea).
Rolwaling Kang Shar (6,645m)
First ascent of Rolwaling Kang Shar (6,645m), Rolwaling Himal, through the southeast ridge (1,800m of climbing, 5/5+ M5), from October 19-23, by Yury Koshelenko and Aleksei Lonchinsky (Russia). Descended route.
Tengi Ragi Tau subsummit (6,772m)
First ascent of Honzova Cesta (1,300m, M5 80°) on the west face of a Tengi Ragi Tau subsummit (6,772m), Rolwaling Himal, from October 29-30, by Marek Disman and Jakub Vlček (Czech Republic). Descended route.
Chobutse (6,686m)
First ascent of Simply Breathe (1,600m, M5 WI4 R/X) on the northeast pillar of Chobutse (6,686m), Rolwaling Himal, from October 14-16, by Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel (Poland). Traversed mountain.
Kabru South (7,318m)
First ascent of Diamonds on the Soles of the Footwear (2,800m, D+ 60°) on the west face of Kabru South (7,318m), Kangchenjunga Himal, from Might 9-12, by Romano Benet and Nives Meroi (Italy), Peter Hámor (Slovakia), and Bojan Jan (Slovenia). Descended route.
Cholatse (6,423m)
First ascent of Simply One Resolution (1,200m, ED, M5 WI4+) on the west face of Cholatse (6,423m), Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu, from November 2-3, by Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák (Czech Republic). Traversed mountain.
Hongku (6,764m)
First ascent of Merely Stunning (900m, M6 90°) on the west face of Hongku (6,764m), Mahalangur Himal – Barun, from Might 20-23, by Matěj Bernát and Marek Holeček (Czech Republic). Traversed mountain.
Jannu (7,710m)
First ascent of Spherical Journey Ticket (2,700m, M7 AI5+ A0), a partial new route on the north face and northwest ridge of Jannu (7,710m), Kangchenjunga Himal, from October 7-12, by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau (USA). Descended route.
CHINA – TIBET
Loinbo Kangri (7,095m)
First ascent of the south face (1,300m, WI3 M4 70°) of Loinbo Kangri (7,095m), Gangdise Shan, from September 13-14, by Liu Junfu and Zhou Track (China). Descended route.
CHINA
Peak 5,800 Meters (5,800m)
First ascent of Peak 5,800m within the Minya Konka Vary, Daxue Shan, through The Pot Service (900m, TD, 5.8 M6) on the west face, from August 8-9, by He Lang, Liu Yang, and Track Yuancheng (China). Descended route.
Jiazi (6,540m)
First ascent of Rebirth (1,400m, TD+ AI4 M6 70°) on the west face of Jiazi (6,540m), Minya Konka Vary, Daxue Shan, from November 1-2, by Tong Zhanghao and Wang Yongpeng (China). Descended route.
Yipingfeng (5,800m) and Erpingfeng (5,880m)
First ascents and north to south traverse of Yipingfeng (5,800m) and Erpingfeng (5,880m) within the Tatsienlu Massif through One Final Piece of the Puzzle (1,300m ascent, TD+, 5.9 R AI3 55° snow), from October 2-4, by He Lang, Liu Yang, and Xia Pei (China).
GEORGIA
Gulba (3,725m)
First ascent of Amaia eta Iker (ca 650m, 7b) on the southwest face of Gulba (3,725m), Caucasus, on July 6, by Julen Berrueko, Jon Inoriza, and Tasio Martin (Basque Nation). Traversed mountain.
RUSSIA
Muisky Large, south summit (3,040m)
First ascent of Muisky Large, south summit (3,040m), South Muya Vary, Siberia, through Staff of our Youth (1,300m, 24 pitches, 6A, 7a) on the southwest face and south-southwest ridge, from August 8-9, by Evgeny Glazunov, Ivan Shilnikov, and Pavel Tkachenko (Russia).
Pik one centesimal Anniversary of Russian Alpinism (2,112m)
First ascent of Pik one centesimal Anniversary of Russian Alpinism (2,112m), Nice Rapids Ridge, Siberia, through the south face (800m of climbing, 16 pitches, 6A), on August 31, by Ivan Kergin, Konstantin Bobrinsky, and Artyom Chikin (Russia). Descended route.
KYRGYZSTAN-CHINA
Pik Ulun (5,588m)
The primary ascent of Crack of Doom (760m, 6A, 6b A3 WI3 M6) on the south face of Pik Ulun (5,588m) within the Western Kokshaal-too, from August 23-28, by Olga Lukashenko, Evgeny Murin, and Ilya Penyaev (Russia). Someday beforehand, Oksana Kochubey, Andrey Panov, Sergey Seryanov, and Ilya Zhdanov (Russia) had made the primary ascent of Pik Ulun through a route on the south face and southwest ridge at 5B, 6a A2+ WI4 M6 (August 23-27). Each groups traversed the mountain.
Voennyh Topografov (6,873m)
First ascent of The Misplaced World (1,925m, 6B 6c A4 M4) on the southwest face of Voennyh Topografov (6,873m), Tien Shan, from August 2-7, by Ratmir Mukhametzyanov, Alexander Parfyonov, and Aleksei Sukharev (Russia). Traversed mountain.
KYRGYZSTAN
Pik Alpinist (5,482m)
First ascent of Trophy Hunt (1,100m, WI5+ M5) on the northeast face of Pik Alpinist (5,482m) within the Western Kokshaal-too, on September 24, by Dane Steadman, Seth Timpano, and Jared Vilhauer (USA). Descended route.
Pik Breeze (4,431m)
First ascent of Pik Breeze (4,431m) within the Pamir Alai through the west face (720m, 16 pitches, 6A/6B, free and assist), from July 24-25, by Marina Popova and Denis Prokofiev (Russia). Traversed mountain.
SOUTH AMERICA
PERU
Ausangate (6,384m)
First ascent of the north face of Ausangate (6,384m), Cordillera Vilcanota, through Japones Directo (1,100m, 5.10a WI6), from Might 17-20, by Kei Narita and Yudai Suzuki (Japan). Traversed mountain.
Ranrapalca (6,162m)
First ascent of the northwest face of Ranrapalca (6,162m), Cordillera Blanca, through Ya Pe’ Cholo (900m, 6b 80°), from August 29-30, by Eneko Pou and Iker Pou (Spain) and Micher Quito (Peru). Traversed mountain.
Tuctubamba West (5,140m)
First ascent of the southwest face of Tuctubamba West (5,140m), Cordillera Blanca, through The Line beneath the Sky (1,100m of climbing, 6b M6+ however not sustained), on August 3, by Marek Radovský and Ďuri Švingál (Slovakia). Descended route.
BOLIVIA
Huallomen (5,463m)
First ascent of Ruta Imantata (500m, ED AI4 M5) on the southwest face of Huallomen (5,463m), Cordillera Actual, on June 15, by Daniele Assolari (Italy), Ronaldo Choque Camargo, and Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez (each Bolivia). Traversed mountain.
ARGENTINA – CHILE / PATAGONIA
Cerro El Monstruo (1,805m)
First ascent of La Chilenita (1,200m, 5.11+ A0) on the northeast face of Cerro El Monstruo (1,805m), Cochamó, from February 8-9, by Antar Machado and Cristobal Señoret (Chile). Traversed mountain.
Monte San Valentin (4,058m)
First ascent of the north spur (3,000m, WI5 M5) of Monte San Valentin (4,058m), from December 4-7 together with two days glacier method, by Oriol Baró and Martín Elías (Spain), and Nico Tapia (Chile). Descended route.
Aguja Guillaumet (ca 2,580m)
First full and free ascent of Anda pa’ Alla (500m, 8a) on the west face of Aguja Guillaumet (ca 2,580m), Chaltén Massif, in a single February day, by Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll (Belgium) and Pete Whittaker (UK).
Western high of Cerro Nora Oeste (2,420m)
First ascent of the western high of Cerro Nora Oeste (2,420m), Northern Patagonia Icefield, through the west ridge – Zenin (ca 900m, 6a+ M6+) – on November 24 after an extended method, by Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera (Italy). Descended route.
AUSTRALASIA
NEW ZEALAND
Flat Prime Peak (2,282m)
First ascent of Apparition (1,100m, NZ 6+) on Flat Prime Peak (2,282m), Darrans, on July 30, by Ben Dare (New Zealand), solo. Traversed mountain. First steady traverse of the Darran Mountains, from south to north, from January 8-17, by Rauri MacFarlane (New Zealand), largely solo.
EUROPE
NORWAY
Segla (639m)
First ascent of the The Horns of Segla (ca 350m, Scottish IX,10) on the northeast face of Segla (639m), Senja Island, Troms og Finnmark, on in the future in Februarym Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, and Man Robertson (UK).
Klokktinden (860m)
First ascent of Past Cod and Eagle (400m, WI5 M8) on the north face of Klokktinden (860m), Moskenesoya, Lofoten, on March 8, by Stian Bruvoll (Norway) and Chris Wright (USA). Traversed mountain.
Stetind (1,392m)
New route on the southwest face of Stetind (1,392m), Nordland – The Southwest Face (790m, 6c+ A0) – on June 30-July 1 (33 hours steady), by Joda Dolmans and Andreas Widlund (Norway). Traversed mountain.
Kjerag (1,110m)
Frist ascent of Silverback (1,000m, 20 pitches, 7b+) on the north face of Kjerag (1,110m), Rogaland, from September 9-10, by Jon Egil Auestad and Jan Eivind Danielsen (Norway).
ALPS
Barre des Écrins (4,010m)
First ascent of De l’or en Barre (1,000m, 6a+ A1 M7 WI5+) on the south face of Barre des Écrins (4,010m), Écrins Massif, from January 28-29, by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, and Benjamin Védrines (France). Traversed mountain.
Les Trois Dents du Pelvoux (3,683m)
First ascent of Marie Pelez Vous (900m, ED WI5+ M5+ 90°) on the east face of Les Trois Dents du Pelvoux (3,683m), Écrins Massif, from November 26-27, by Anouk Félix-Faure, Amaury Fouillade, Pierrick Giffard, and Raphaël Marsan (France).
Punta Brendel (3,498m)
First ascent of Couloir Isaïe (600m, 7a/7a+ M8 AI5) on the west face of Punta Brendel (3,498m), Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc Massif, from February 12-13, by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, and Stefano Stradelli (Italy). Descended route.
Breithorn Central (4,159m)
First ascent of Property Indiana (800m, M8 AI5 R) on the north-northeast face of Breithorn Central (4,159m), Valais Alps, on September 30, by François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza (Italy). Traversed mountain.
Eiger (3,967m)
First ascent of Renaissance (820m, 7c, 7a obl, three brief sections of A2, no bolts positioned, capsule type) on the north face of the Eiger (3,967m), Bernese Oberland, from August 19–24, by Peter von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach (Switzerland).
Antelao (3,264m)
First ascent of Oltre il Diau (ca 1,000m, 7c A2, no bolts positioned) on the south face of Antelao (3,264m), Cadore, Dolomites, from October 4-7 by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, and Alex Walpot (Italy).
Monte Agner (2,872m)
First ascent of Ultima Perla Integral from base of the north face of Monte Agner (2,872m), Pala, Dolomites, through the South Tyrolean Route – Ultima Perla hyperlink (1,400m, M6 WI5+ A0), from December 27-29, by Simon Gietl (Italy), Lukas Hinterberger (Switzerland), and Michi Wohlleben (Germany).
Sass Maor (2,812m)
First ascent of Oltre l’Invisible (1,000m, 23 pitches, VIII, VII obl, no bolts positioned) on the east face of Sass Maor (2,812m), Pala, Dolomites, from September 15-17, by Yann Borgnet and Antoine Bouqueret (France).
