Staša Gejo lately introduced that she’s stepping away from aggressive climbing. The 27-year-old Serbian has been a frequent competitor on the IFSC World Cup scene since 2013, taking part in each Lead and Boulder comps.
Gejo is probably finest recognized for her bouldering accomplishments. She earned bronze at Boulder World Championships in 2018 and 2021. She gained bronze 3 times at Boulder World Cups: Chongqing 2018, Innsbruck 2021, and Brixen 2023. Putting 2nd on the European Olympic Qualifier in 2023, she simply missed her likelihood to compete within the Olympics.
After the latest Dock Masters 2025 comp in Utrecht, Netherlands, Gejo introduced her comp climbing choice by way of Instagram. “The competitors atmosphere doesn’t encourage me, it repulses me,” she mentioned. Her assertion is prolonged and nicely value studying. Yow will discover it in its entirety under.
She supplied a number of rationales for stepping away from comp climbing, together with fashionable setting and assist. “I’ve a beef with routesetting, I admit it, nevertheless it’s additionally MY downside,” she mentioned in her assertion. “I is perhaps too old fashioned for it. I can’t see one other no-tex maintain. I can’t see the identical faces setting each competitors and dictating the traits. I’ve an issue with it and that’s it. I don’t have the assist, a crew, a health club and sources to pay these valuable faces, to observe the traits and be good at them.”
With comp climbing in her rearview mirror, Gejo is wanting ahead to climbing extra on rock. “My climbing life isn’t over,” mentioned Gejo. “I simply don’t need to be part of this circus anymore. I’d return for a contest or two however my full focus is on climbing outdoors and climbing for myself. I need to uncover locations and other people and simply climb.”
On the rock, Gejo has climbed as much as V14. In 2022, she despatched Mécanique Elémentaire V14 in Fontainebleau. She’s climbed not less than three V13s. She topped Incubator V13 in Zillertal Austria in July final yr. On a visit to Rocklands 4 summers in the past, she accomplished Mooiste Meisie and The Arch, each V13.
Gejo’s full assertion may be learn under:
One other nice comp, a very good end result too (third place), however internally, I struggled. I’ve been desirous to share my ideas and my plans however at all times backed out or by no means thought that the larger viewers would perceive what has been occurring the final yr. You might need seen it coming. However right here it’s, I made a decision it’s not for me anymore. The competitors atmosphere doesn’t encourage me, it repulses me.
2024 was stuffed with disappointments, a betrayal, lack of strong floor, lack of routine, normality, unfulfilled wants of an athlete with a giant aim. Ultimately, the summer season was marked as lack of love for the game, marked by a return in one other gentle, in one other facet. However each try at competing, irrespective of how profitable, felt incorrect. Win or not, it felt bitter.
I used to be afraid to simply name it and say bye. I felt like it will be a disgrace to simply go. In Villars in August, I knew it was my final IFSC comp. And I liked being there with my good pals and with my household. However I didn’t just like the climbing half in any respect. Finals disgusted me particularly.
I attempted to do masters right here and there. “That ought to be enjoyable.” Once more, enjoyable with folks, not enjoyable climbing. I’ll speak in regards to the challenges that I had within the subsequent submit, however I must cowl one matter beforehand.
I’ve a beef with routesetting, I admit it, nevertheless it’s additionally MY downside. I is perhaps too old fashioned for it. I can’t see one other no-tex maintain. I can’t see the identical faces setting each competitors and dictating the traits. I’ve an issue with it and that’s it. I don’t have the assist, a crew, a health club and sources to pay these valuable faces, to observe the traits and be good at them.
Dock Masters setting was onerous in all rounds. I had no will to climb ultimately and I got here to have enjoyable, oh nicely. All of the urgent, shoulder stress and fatigue killed me. Positive, I’m not within the form to resist the pressure for thus lengthy. In spite of everything, I do a 35h/week job since July and prepare perhaps for 10-12h. I nonetheless climb so nicely, nonetheless.
What I need to say is, I like climbing onerous and difficult boulders, however in my very own time, with no stress and no comparability. With resting, with pals, taking part in!
One other factor that makes it troublesome to proceed is the assist. I moved out of my nation once I was 16 and lived aside from my dad and mom ever since. I pursued each tutorial and sports activities careers in international international locations. I used to be at all times warmly welcomed within the climbing groups and educated, discovered, and grew along with the climbers. I progressed, felt supported and I felt like I had a crew.
After which at all times one thing occurs that’s unknown to me which makes me sidelined and will get me unwelcome and international once more. So I’ve to maneuver on and discover one other surrounding which is perhaps a bit extra welcoming. And so forth in circles. When such a factor occurs earlier than the 2 largest Olympic qualifiers, it’s not a pleasant nor straightforward factor to cope with.
I used to be at all times jealous of massive groups who’ve a number of coaches, physios on demand, huge gyms for themselves, new setting each two to a few weeks. Full consideration to athletes…
I had assist with out which I’d be nowhere near being nearly as good as I’m now. I’ve my dad and mom, my household and pals, who have been the one folks that also supported me 1000% I cooperated with some coaches on the facet as nicely however that was solely part of what I actually wanted and doubtless deserved. They have been both distant, with restricted availability or having different priorities. So it will at all times work a sure time interval after which not anymore. However I’m very grateful for these folks, nonetheless!
I had superb assist from my authorities, my federation and the Serbian Olympic Committee and I can not even specific my gratitude in the direction of these establishments. They helped me be capable of reside usually from this sport. And lastly I had my pricey sponsors which adopted me for thus a few years and supplied me with the most effective gear. However it appears that evidently the competitors climbing goes far past to demand what was “sufficient” earlier than from a person or a crew.
My climbing life isn’t over. I simply don’t need to be part of this circus anymore. I’d return for a contest or two however my full focus is on climbing outdoors and climbing for myself. I need to uncover locations and other people and simply climb.
