Yesterday, Sonnie Trotter repeated one among Canada’s most troublesome sport routes – Spirit Quest 5.14d (9a), situated on the stunning Paradise Wall simply exterior of Squamish. Spirit Quest is a direct begin variation of the Tom Wright masterpiece, Spirit of the West 5.14a. The climbing is bodily, technical, and relentless, linking straight into the crux of Spirit of the West with no relaxation in between. Initially bolted by Wright in 2016, Spirit Quest noticed its first ascent by Mike Foley in 2021.
Trotter’s ascent is the primary within the ‘gents’s wager’ between him, Alex Honnold, and Tommy Caldwell – a enjoyable problem between the three long-time associates and climbing companions to see who may tick 5.14d subsequent. This ‘race to 9a’ brings motivation, accountability, and wholesome competitors whereas the three attempt to stability different household, fatherhood, and profession commitments and tasks. The trio focus on this 9a problem on a latest episode of the Climbing Gold podcast, which you’ll take heed to beneath.
Spirit Quest is Trotter’s first 5.14d since 2015, when he repointed Estado Critico 5.14d in Siurana, Spain. His first-ever 5.14d was in 2004 together with his first ascent of Without end Expired in Lion’s Head, Ontario. It stays unrepeated and one among Ontario’s hardest routes. Trotter, 44, is most well-known for his trad climbing accomplishments, together with first ascents of Cobra Crack 5.14b in Squamish and The Path 5.14a R in Lake Louise and the primary repeat of Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody 5.14c X.
“There’s loads to say about a spot, a neighborhood, a crag, and a climb, however I’ll attempt to maintain it temporary for right this moment,” mentioned Trotter about Spirit Quest on Instagram. “I’ve been attempting this stunning line on and off for the final 20 months, and through that point I’ve spent someplace near 30 days on it. To me, it’s one of the vital stunning faces I’ve seen, dotted by impeccable (and generally inconceivable) granite edges, surrounded by outdated development bushes and thriving chicken life. Once I seen the forecast final week shift away from the heavy rains however gearing in the direction of the warmer facet, I took my probabilities and packed up the automotive for a weekend tenting journey with the children. Fortunately they love tenting and journey as a lot as I do and the stoke was excessive.
“Yesterday, on Sunday morning, with a very good crew of locals and roping up once more with Simon Yamamoto I managed to remain on the wall lengthy sufficient to get to the highest. Spirit Quest is a dream climb for me, and I’m honoured to have checked it off the listing. For these of you who could have been following the problem, I most likely wouldn’t have executed it so quickly with out the strain, encouragement and accountability of my associates Tommy and Alex. Someway they all the time assist me stage up once I have to, a few of my biggest days within the vertical world are with, and due to them. This time isn’t any totally different, I agreed to the problem final August, educated tougher since February, and right this moment, I used to be capable of reap the rewards of these efforts.”
Mike Foley on Spirit Quest 5.14d
The Gents’s Race to 9a
