Featured Picture: Matteo Agreiter
Most European ski fantasies are related to France, Austria and Switzerland. However don’t let Italy’s la dolce vita picture idiot you. Right here within the Dolomites, tucked up within the northeast nook of the nation, jagged peaks are lined with cable vehicles that allow snow-sliding adventures of all types. Whether or not you’re within the temper to sip on spritzes and lounge on huge solar decks or get excessive up into the alpine and take a look at your mettle amongst jagged peaks, the Italian Alps are prepared to offer.
Dolomiti Superski, a community of 12 inter- related ski resorts with near 800 miles of pistes (learn: trails), is among the largest ski areas on the earth. It additionally occurs to be dotted with an enormous community of rifugios: conventional, family-run mountain huts that provide cozy rooms and residential cooked meals for summer time and winter vacationers. They really feel like five-star chalets when in comparison with the barebones huts usually discovered within the U.S and so they allow a singular journey for skiers. Often called a Ski Safari, it’s a little bit like a hut journey on steroids. The journey includes a ski traverse from village-to-village utilizing a mixture of on and off-piste runs, ski lifts and quick car transfers to get from one rifguio to the following. Many clothes shops even switch your luggage, enabling you to ski with simply as mall day pack.
Final winter, I connected with native clothes shop Dolomite Mountains to expertise a five-day alpine safari that targeted on three areas: Cortina d’Ampezzo, Alta Badia and Arabba. Michele Barbiero, a UIAGM/IFMGA skilled mountain information, greeted me on my first morning in Cortina d’Ampezzo, a quintessential ski village that sits about three hours north of Venice and is gearing as much as host its second Winter Olympic Video games in 2026. In true Italian fashion, we jolted our day with some espresso as he waxed poetic in regards to the UNESCO World Heritage surroundings we’d take within the subsequent few days. A loyal alpinist, he’s guided new routes within the Himalayas and Turkey and made the primary Italian crossing of Alaska’s Denali from north to south. I knew I used to be in good arms.
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO
We kicked off our journey within the Tofana ski space, which simply occurred to be holding the FIS Girls’s Ski World Cup throughout my go to and Barbiero and I watched a couple of athletes whiz full throttle down the Olympia Delle Tofane. The enduring piste, nicknamed the Queen of Runs, is akin to a Method One course, with the famed Schuss part boasting a slope gradient of almost 65 %. Watching the velocity at which the ladies attacked the course was the right strategy to stoke my pleasure for our day
The Dolomites provide each form of snowboarding you could possibly probably think about, from lengthy, undulating groomers to noticeably difficult off-piste descents that require boot packing and ice axes. Barbiero selected a well-liked off-piste route referred to as Bus de Tofana which unfolds some 4,000 vertical ft alongside a gorgeous couloir on the southwest aspect of the large Center Tofana. It was a dreamy strategy to get my Italian ski legs underneath me. From there, a cable automobile then whisked us again to the highest for a couple of extra warmup runs earlier than we boot packed half-hour to a panoramic move then dropped into a large couloir hugged in by golden rock partitions. A groomed street on the backside related us again to the slopes and we schussed straight to Baita Piè Tofana, a Michelin-starred, on-piste restaurant with a wood-burning hearth and a menu of refined dishes that included saffron risotto with cured prosciutto and ravioli with parmesan foam.
We made a couple of extra turns earlier than hopping in a automobile for a 20-minute switch to the Cinque Torri ski space. Right here, we ascended two lifts to reach at our residence for the night: Rifugio Averau. Set at an elevation of seven,916 ft, this contemporary, family-run hut feels prefer it’s floating within the clouds, which had simply began to blush with the night’s alpenglow. I swapped my boots for slippers and revived myself with the area’s signature winter drink, a Bombardino. The electrical yellow concoction of egg liqueur and brandy-spiked eggnog rosied my cheeks as I sat on the deck overlooking the peaks to the south. “Drink a couple of and also you would possibly develop hair in your chest,” Barbiero warned.
THE SELLA MASSIF
We rose early the following morning, booted up and set off for the Arabba ski space, a journey which might take the higher a part of the day. It started with a ski right down to Falzarego Cross the place a cable automobile would take us simply above 2700 meters and just under the summit of Mt. Lagazuoi—a peak that that options intensive tunnels which had been used in the course of the First World Warfare. Fortunately, the one factor we had been combating was starvation so we popped into Rifugio Scotoni for double espressos and biscotti earlier than persevering with down the groomed slopes to a one thing I used to be definitely not anticipating: a horse-drawn sled. I checked out Barbiero quizzically. “Italy’s model of a T-bar,” he joked.
I white-knuckled the lengthy, thick rope and tried to not catch an edge whereas being towed, together with about 40 different skiers. Just a few extra lift-connected runs lastly deposited us within the village of Arabba, which is ready on the base of the Sella Massif, a plateau-shaped landmark within the coronary heart of the Dolomites.
For the following two nights we’d base ourselves at Resort Col di Lana. In-built 1907 by well-known climber Tita Piaz (aka the Dolomite Satan) this historic rifugio is ready atop Pordoi move which is taken into account the area’s gateway of utmost snowboarding. Right here, at 7,350 ft, rooms had been easy, however the panorama of jagged, fang-like limestone peaks had been out of this world and our hosts, Nadia and Daniela regaled us with climbing and snowboarding tales whereas stuffing us with do-it-yourself apple strudel.
Most individuals ogle the majestic Sella Massif through the Sella Ronda, the area’s well-known, 25-mile, raise related circuit, which may be accomplished in a day should you’re cautious to not drink an excessive amount of wine at lunch. Get within the thick of it, like we had been, and also you’ll discover incredible steeps and unbelievable traces just like the Holtzer Couloir, which we skied the following morning. With a sustained, 45-50 diploma pitch, this slim channel by means of an enormous rock wall typically features a rappel over an ice waterfall, however we had been fortunate sufficient to ski it from high to backside and it was definitely a spotlight of the safari.
The next day was dedicated to the Val di Mezdì, a traditional off-piste run that stretches to the north of Pordoi Cross and will get likened to the Vallée Blanche within the Alps, though it’s not a glacier run. The 7.5-mile route boasts a vertical descent of greater than 4,500 ft that unfurls alongside a surprising valley sandwiched by extra colossal rock partitions—a theme right here within the Dolomites. We raced down, carving recent tracks within the snow, and solely slowed once we reached the ultimate slim, steep pitch that spit us onto the slopes of Corvara ski space.
The beauty of a ski safari is that you’re at all times famished however your information at all times has a plan. Barbiero had referred to as forward and reserved us a desk at Mathiaskeller, a homey restaurant run by a household of former ski racers. The menu showcased specialties of the area’s distinctive Ladin tradition, in addition to genuine South Tyrolean fare, resembling canederli, a scrumptious bread dumpling studded withspeck and cheese. From our desk on the sprawling deck we admired the view of our descent as we feasted on carbs and washed down with home made grappa.
THE MARMOLADA GLACIER
On day 4, we left Pordoi Cross and got down to discover the Dolomites’ final remaining glacier, Marmolada. The “Queen of the Dolomites,” soars to a top of 10,965 ft — the very best within the area — and is often known as the Powder Queen. A collection of three cable vehicles transfers skiers to the summit. We shortly popped out on the second station to go to the Museum of the Nice Warfare, which honors the troopers who fought in these mountains, then rode the ultimate cable automobile to the highest.
Barbiero was giddy on the bluebird day forward of us and we lapped limitless glacier runs earlier than collapsing into the Finnish barrel sauna at Baida Dovich, a minimalist resort set on the foot of Marmolada. Barbiero and I toasted the day with glasses of inky Brunello and heaping bowls of hearty deer ragu pasta. I feel I ate simply as a lot as I skied in the course of the week and that was simply superb by me as a result of if you come to Italy, you’ve received to take all of it in.
Journey Ideas
HOW TO GET THERE
Fly to VENICE MARCO POLO AIRPORT and the Dolomite Mountains crew will prepare a switch. Seven-day, off-piste ski safaris begin at $5,162 per particular person for a gaggle of six together with lodging and most meals. For more information go to: dolomitemountains.com
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Miky’s Grill / ARRABA
A terrific spot for lunch recognized for its do-it-yourself pastas and Flintstones sized steaks grilled on a wood-fire.
Rifugio Fodom / ARRABA
An enthralling hut on the slopes of the Sellaronda set between the village of Arabba and the Passo Pordoi. Housemade, skinny crust pizza is the specialty right here and the large deck is ideal for après ski beers on a bluebird day.
Zelda Cocktail Membership / CORTINA D’AMPEZZO
Named for Zelda Fitzgerald, spouse of creator F. Scott Fitzgerald, this Jazz age-inspired cocktail spots set inside Resort Ambra at all times hosts a energetic aperitivo hour.
Molo Pub / Cortina
Courting to the Nineteen Sixties, this low-key pub is credited with bringing American-style craft beer to the world and has over 300 completely different types on faucet.
L’Bought / CORVARA
Glorious, laidback après cocktails (strive the Spritz) and snacks.
L’Murin / CORVARA
In the event you’re seeking to dance on tables and do pictures, that is this rowdy après spot in Resort La Perla is the spot.
