The Edelrid OHMEGA, introduced in the present day, is a brand new sort of belay help that reduces the load on the belayer in a fall whereas offering different benefits. The OHMEGA defines a brand new class of belay help gadgets. Positioned on the primary piece of safety, it actively reduces the load on the belayer in a lead fall.
It additionally reduces rope drag for the chief and has different benefits. It would hit the market in August 2025.
Edelrid claims that the OHMEGA is a special animal than the OHM. The German model developed the OHM (now in its second technology) to offset the unfavorable results of a lead climber far outweighing the belayer.
The OHM passively provides friction to the rope within the occasion of a fall, reducing the drive transmitted to the belayer. This reduces the probabilities of damage to the belayer from being pulled into or up the wall and does the identical for the lead climber by minimizing fall distance.
The OHMEGA actively provides resistance to the rope throughout a fall through a spring-loaded cam as an alternative of passively doing it by geometry and cord drag. Moreover, the quantity of “weight” added to the belayer is adjustable between three ranges of help. That is functionally essentially the most vital distinction between the OHM and the OHMEGA.
It’s Not Simply an Up to date OHM
The OHMEGA additionally has extra options that make it vastly completely different and advantageous for each climber and belayer in comparison with the OHM. First, a pulley reduces rope drag on the first bolt. This lessens the load on the chief and makes fast lead clipping simpler for each climber and belayer, particularly on lengthy routes.
The OHMEGA attaches to the primary piece of safety through a brief Dyneema sling, in contrast to the OHM, which is on a standard-length quickdraw dogbone. This drastically reduces the quantity of rope journey distance wanted to activate the belay help, which additionally makes delivering a softer catch because the belayer a lot simpler.
The sling can be how the climber adjusts the extent of help; it merely adjustments the leverage ratio of the cam and does so with out difficult mechanical signifies that might be problematic in sure circumstances.
The truncated activation distance additionally helps stop accidents through the high-risk interval when the chief is simply above the primary piece of safety. Faster belaying help minimizes the chief’s potential to hit the bottom or the chief and belayer to collide.
The Edelrid OHMEGA works on single ropes between 8.6mm and 10.5mm.
Edelrid OHMEGA: Manageable Type Issue
I’ve used the Edelrid OHM since its introduction in 2016. Though it drastically improved belaying dynamics when my climbing associate was a lot lighter than me, I solely introduced it sport climbing due to its comparatively excessive weight and bulk issue.
The Edelrid OHMEGA is far more compact and light-weight than the OHM. At a fraction of the scale of the OHM and a scant 170g, I can see retaining it in my pack as a “simply in case” merchandise and hauling it into the alpine.
Tommy Caldwell has already been utilizing the Edelrid OHMEGA, saying, “The OHMEGA is without doubt one of the most ingenious merchandise to hit the market for a very long time. It reduces each the rope drag when lead climbing and the load created by weight variations in a rope get together. The gadget itself weighs little greater than a typical quickdraw.
I’ve seen many accidents that might have been prevented by utilizing the OHMEGA. After making an attempt it as soon as, you additionally notice simply how straightforward it’s to make use of. I wouldn’t be stunned if the OHMEGA have been to turn into a typical piece of substances for the climbing neighborhood.”
Keep tuned for a full evaluation of the OHMEGA when it turns into out there for buy in 2025.
