Jorge Díaz-Rullo just lately repeated Muerte por Asfixia V16 (8C+) in La Pedriza, Spain. The road was established by Pablo Zamora in early January this yr. Díaz-Rullo’s despatched the issue on solely his third session, and his ascent is probably going the second. An influence endurance take a look at, the road traverses leftward throughout a really steep, low-to-the-ground boulder earlier than a cruxy part reaching the lip. A part of the issue’s difficultly comes from attempting to not dab a block that sits straight beneath the road.
“I nonetheless can’t imagine I did my hardest boulder ever!” stated Díaz-Rullo on Instagram. “In my third session and profiting from a window of excellent climate in midsummer. Very full boulder downside, demanding, with that spicy endurance on the finish and in addition, with its particular particularity of climbing very near the bottom in among the strikes. Actually a boulder that I thought of my model and one which I favored so much. La Pedriza by no means ceases to amaze me!
“Concerning the grade, I’m conscious that a part of its problem is about not doing dab on the stone. This provides me a bitter style as a result of I do know that the issue doesn’t come all from the strikes themselves, but it surely nonetheless appears to me one thing unique and particular about this boulder. However, I’ve no references on these grades, but it surely’s positively appears more durable to me than the [V15s] I did earlier than. Now, I’m very motivated to search for extra references on these ranges in boulder and naturally, attempt more durable issues sooner or later.”
Muerte por Asfixia is Díaz-Rullo’s first V16. Based on his 8a.nu account, he’s despatched seven V15s and 15 V14s, all in Spain. Recognized extra his sport climbing, Díaz-Rullo has accomplished among the hardest routes on this planet together with a primary ascent of Mejorando la Samfaina 5.15c and a repeat of Alex Megos’ Bibliographie 5.15c. In February this yr, he made the third ascent of Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15b.
Along with his ascent of Muerte por Asfixia, Díaz-Rullo joins a small variety of climbers who’ve climbed each 5.15c and V16. These embrace Adam Ondra, Sean Bailey, and Jakob Schubert. Technically, Schubert has not climbed V16, however he has climbed V17 along with his ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. Many within the 5.15c membership have climbed V15 however not V16. These embrace Chris Sharma, Seb Bouin, and Alex Megos. Stefano Ghisolfi, with many 5.15c’s below his belt, has bouldered V14. Will Bosi has climbed 5.15b/c and bouldered V16 and V17.
Pablo Zamora’s first ascent of Muerte por Asfixia V16