On June 1, Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo made the second ascent of Muerte por Asfixia V16 (8C+) in La Pedriza, Spain. The road was established by Pablo Zamora in early January this yr. Díaz-Rullo’s despatched the issue on solely his third session. An influence endurance check, the road traverses leftward throughout a really steep, low-to-the-ground boulder earlier than a cruxy part reaching the lip. A part of the issue’s difficultly comes from making an attempt to not dab a block that sits instantly beneath the road.
“I nonetheless can’t consider I did my hardest boulder ever!” stated Díaz-Rullo on Instagram. “In my third session and benefiting from a window of fine climate in midsummer. Very full boulder downside, demanding, with that spicy endurance on the finish and in addition, with its particular particularity of climbing very near the bottom in among the strikes. Actually a boulder that I thought-about my type and one which I appreciated loads. La Pedriza by no means ceases to amaze me!
“Concerning the grade, I’m conscious that a part of its issue is about not doing dab on the stone. This offers me a bitter style as a result of I do know that the problem doesn’t come all from the strikes themselves, but it surely nonetheless appears to me one thing authentic and particular about this boulder. Then again, I’ve no references on these grades, but it surely’s undoubtedly appears tougher to me than the [V15s] I did earlier than. Now, I’m very motivated to search for extra references on these ranges in boulder and naturally, strive tougher issues sooner or later.”
Muerte por Asfixia is Díaz-Rullo’s first V16. In keeping with his 8a.nu account, he’s despatched seven V15s and 15 V14s, all in Spain. Recognized extra his sport climbing, Díaz-Rullo has accomplished among the hardest routes on this planet together with a primary ascent of Mejorando la Samfaina 5.15c and a repeat of Alex Megos’ Bibliographie 5.15c. In February this yr, he made the third ascent of Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15b.
Along with his ascent of Muerte por Asfixia, Díaz-Rullo joins a small variety of climbers who’ve climbed each 5.15c and V16. These embrace Adam Ondra, Sean Bailey, and Jakob Schubert. Technically, Schubert has not climbed V16, however he has climbed V17 along with his ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. Many within the 5.15c membership have climbed V15 however not V16. These embrace Chris Sharma, Seb Bouin, and Alex Megos. Stefano Ghisolfi, with many 5.15c’s below his belt, has bouldered V14. Will Bosi has climbed 5.15b/c and bouldered V16 and V17.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo on Muerte por Asfixia V16
