The view from Margy’s Hut appears south into the Elk Mountains close to Aspen, Colo. I sipped a beer from the porch, watching the alpenglow shine pink on the alpine slopes of Ashcroft Mountain, Mount Shirmer, Inexperienced Mountain, and a few others I couldn’t title. Inside, I might hear glad hour sounds: folks laughing, conversations, and exclamations over the appetizers. I soaked within the second.
Usually, once I’m at a tenth Mountain Division Hut, there’s snow on the bottom. I arrive by ski. We soften our consuming water and spend the times touring the encircling mountains. These are my favourite winter backcountry goals. I attempt to knock one or two of them off the listing each season.
Nevertheless, this was August. I used to be carrying shorts, sandals, and a Stetson, and my companions and I had arrived that afternoon on horseback. This was the third evening of our 4-day hut-to-hut experience. This journey, the “Vail to Aspen Experience,” is each notorious and obscure. Few appear to find out about it.
However, the co-owner of Bearcat and our lead wrangler that week, Leeds Butcher, has had this journey featured in a few of the most outstanding journey and luxurious magazines in Colorado and nationally, like Vail-Beaver Creek Journal and Meals & Wine, to call a number of.
It’s a swanky journey. And it prices a fairly penny. However Bearcat Stables is likely one of the solely outfitters in Colorado with a allow to information journeys that cross from one United States Forest Service (USFS) Ranger District into one other. You begin within the Eagle-Holy Cross Ranger District and finish within the Sopris District — crossing a few of the most spectacular elements of the White River Nationwide Forest.
I don’t sometimes go on backcountry journeys that will be featured in {a magazine} like Meals & Wine. I’m often snowboarding or backpacking — sleeping in a tent, consuming camp meals out of baggage or cans, filtering my water, and carrying the identical garments for days on finish.
I gained’t inform you this journey isn’t rugged, soiled, or difficult. It’s all of these issues. But it surely’s undoubtedly luxe in comparison with my typical 3-night exploits in Colorado’s backcountry. So, right here’s what it’s essential know to embark by yourself hut-to-hut journey by horseback.
Bearcat Stables’ Vail to Aspen Experience: What to Anticipate
“We’ve been doing this journey for 25 years,” Butcher instructed me. He’s personally accomplished round 50 of those 63-mile rides in his 18 years working at Bearcat. Simply between Vail and Aspen, Butcher has most likely logged 1000’s of miles. And each single journey has been its personal distinctive journey, he stated.
Nevertheless, relying on the time of 12 months, the group, the wranglers, and 100 different variables, it’s by no means a boring 4 days.
Alongside the best way, you not solely get to remain in two of the oldest (and two of my private favourite) tenth Mountain Division Huts and a historic visitor ranch, however you additionally get fed connoisseur rustic meals 3 times a day. There isn’t any different expertise like this one in Colorado and few which are extra true to the state’s roots.
“We take an amazing quantity of satisfaction on this journey,” Butcher stated. “The horses, the huts, the land, I imply, it’s all crucial to us.”
The Huts
tenth Mountain Division Huts are an expertise unto themselves. They’re a communal useful resource operated by the tenth Mountain Division Hut Affiliation, a nonprofit group. Named after the U.S. mountaineer troopers famously educated at Camp Hale, Colo., throughout WWII, these huts will be reserved by people or teams all year long.
After I’m attempting to persuade folks to hitch our ski hut journeys, I describe them as “rustic-chic.” The huts have beds, dwelling areas, forged iron fireplaces and ovens, propane range burners, totally kitted kitchens, and outhouses.
They’re stocked with firewood and provides like matches and bathroom paper. Additionally they often have nice bookshelves and a handful of video games and puzzles.
In contrast to my typical expertise at these huts, on Bearcat’s Vail to Aspen Experience, your baggage is portaged. You pack up your sleeping bag and private gadgets each morning, and the wranglers who aren’t driving throw all of it in a trailer.
Then, it’s ready for you whenever you arrive at your night vacation spot. There’s no must pack ultralight for this journey — although the wranglers actually admire you leaving the kitchen sink at dwelling.
So, what do you pack for 4 days on horseback within the Colorado Rockies, staying at tenth Mountain Division Huts?
Horseback Hut Journey: Gear for a 4-Day Experience
I’ve at all times been in a position to match my issues right into a single 32L duffel bag. Some folks need to convey much more baggage and don’t hesitate to overpack — the pack horse isn’t carrying it, in spite of everything.
Nonetheless, the wranglers carry your luggage from their trailer to the huts and again, and so they discover which packs are mild and that are heavy. In the course of the day, you’ll be able to pack your saddle bag with no matter private or obligatory gadgets you need.
Right here is my basic packing listing.
- Rain jacket (slickers are offered, however you’ll be able to convey your personal jacket)
- Sun shades
- Hat (ball cap for brimmed hat)
- Beanie (it could actually get chilly at evening)
- Sleeping bag
- Mountain climbing boots/driving footwear
- Lengthy socks x5
- Underwear x5
- Bike shorts (I don’t put on them, however some folks swear by them)
- Using chaps (Once more, I don’t put on them, however they give the impression of being fairly darn cool)
- Lengthy pants x3 / x4
- T-shirts x3 / x4
- Lengthy sleeve shirts x3 / x4
- Hut hangout garments (assume consolation)
- Midlayer/flannel
- Toiletries/private gadgets
- Sunscreen
- Beer/wine/liquor (BYOB)
- Devices? (Butcher performs the guitar and piano and enthusiastically advisable I convey my guitar, too. However a mandolin, ukelele, or harmonica — something that will be good for campfire songs is welcome.)
Expertise, Hazards, and Expectations
Folks join this journey with differing ranges of driving expertise. Butcher stated so long as you’re no less than comfy on a horse, you may get by.
The extra saddle time you’ve, the higher, although. You’ll be extra comfy with the animals, however you’ll even be extra comfy general. You spend between 6 and eight hours within the saddle each day, driving up and down steep hills, throughout valleys, and even summiting a peak. In case you don’t experience so much, you’ll really feel it on the finish of every day.
Butcher additionally provides that it’s good to have some expertise with Western-style driving, particularly. This ain’t no English pleasure experience, though any driving expertise is best than none.
Regardless of how a lot expertise you’ve, don’t anticipate this journey to be a senseless stroll within the woods. Riders should be always cautious of path hazards like animal burrows or floor nesting wasps that may sting your horse and ship it bucking.
And whereas there aren’t any toxic snakes, there are bears and mountain lions in Colorado. Butcher doesn’t experience with no .357 revolver on his hip.
The Climate
So far as the climate, anticipate the surprising. It may be stunning. It may well additionally activate a dime and throw lengthy days of rain or brief, violent hailstorms at you. Summer season climate in Colorado is understood for its bipolar temper swings.
“We’ve gotten into some conditions with the climate the place I’ve been like, ‘Oh my gosh. That is unbelievable. Right here we go,’” Butcher instructed me with a chuckle.
Sometimes, although, he stated, once they run these Vail to Aspen Rides between July and August, the times are sunny and heat and 75-85 levels.
The Meals
Regardless of touring by means of the backcountry, the meals is a spotlight of this journey. Nearly any meals would style nice after you’ve spent your complete day on prime of a horse, however Bearcat at all times has a connoisseur chef accompanying the crew. While you get to your vacation spot, snacks and appetizers are ready for you, and dinner is on its manner.
Sandwiches or wraps are packed for lunch, carried by the pack horse, and loved on the path. For breakfast, there’s espresso, granola, fruit, and/or eggs and bacon. Some mornings, they’ll throw out bagel sandwich makings.
Over time, Bearcat has had a handful of various cooks, and in my expertise, they’ve all been wonderful. However the chef as of this writing is Adam Weinberger, a Vail ski fanatic and educated connoisseur who primarily works non-public occasions within the Vail Valley — and for Bearcat within the backcountry.
I gained’t torture you by describing each scrumptious element of the meals he made utilizing the tenth Mountain Division huts’ forged iron cookware, over the firepit, or on grills. However listed below are a number of of my favorites: seared ribeye steak with chimichurri sauce and roasted greens, rooster curry and rice with tom yung soup on the facet, or bone-in brief ribs with tacky polenta and broccolini.
Once we requested him, Chef Adam stated he tries by no means to repeat the identical menu twice over a summer season. He mixes it up each journey as greatest he can.
And when you discover wild edible mushrooms or berries rising when you experience, harvest them and produce them alongside. He’ll cook dinner them up or discover a manner to make use of them in no matter meal he has deliberate.
The Route & Itinerary
The route that Bearcat is permitted to comply with on the Vail to Aspen Experience passes by means of a few of the most scenic nation in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains. You move by means of the White River Nationwide Forest, driving beneath the New York Mountains, by means of pastures and valleys, over creeks and rivers, right into a Wilderness Space, and eventually, you strategy the Elk Mountains close to Aspen.
In the course of the journey, you’ll take pleasure in unparalleled views of a few of Colorado’s most iconic peaks.
The mornings are early, however the driving doesn’t begin till round 9:00 a.m. on daily basis after folks have had their fill of caffeine and sustenance.
The primary day, from Bearcat to Peter Estin Hut, is the longest day, masking about 20 miles. The next days are each simpler and shorter (although not by a lot).
“It’s laborious to choose a favourite day or a part of the journey,” Butcher stated. “Every day represents one thing completely completely different.”
Right here is the final itinerary.
- Day 1: Bearcat Stables to Peter Estin Hut: Experience previous New York Mountain, descending into Yoeman Park, after which reascend what’s known as the “Iron Edge” by means of old-growth pine forests earlier than rising at Peter Estin Hut.
- Day 2: Peter Estin Hut to Yolande Mountain Cabins: Descend from Peter Estin into Lime Park, with unbelievable views of the again sides of the New Yorks. You move by one other tenth Mountain Division Hut (Harry Gates) as you progress up and over into the following valley, the Frying Pan. You descend and keep that evening at Yolande Mountain Cabins, a historic visitor ranch on the Frying Pan River. That is the one evening not spent in a tenth Hut, and friends have their very own small cabins and entry to showers.
- Day 3: Yolande Mountain Cabins to Margy’s Hut: Ascend into the Hunter-Frying Pan Wilderness for a protracted day of climbing by means of pine forests. You emerge in a pasture at your lunch spot, with mind-blowing views of the Maroon Bells. Then, you ascend to the highest of Mount Yeckel, 11,759 toes, with panoramic views of the Rocky Mountains. Capitol Peak, Pyramid Peak, The Bells, Mount Large, Mount Elbert, Holy Cross, Notch Mountain, and the again facet of Crimson Desk all dominate the view. From Yeckel, you make a brief descent to Margy’s Hut. Don’t let your horse flip over within the watering gap on the best way. You will go along with it.
- Day 4: Margy’s Hut to Hunter Creek Trailhead: Depart Margy’s and experience trails and repair roads down into Hunter Creek, with beautiful glimpses of the Aspen Valley popping into view. Then, the experience ends at Hunter Creek Trailhead, the place friends are picked up and shuttled again to Bearcat.
The Value
Clearly, at $3,300 per individual, that is an costly journey for nearly anybody. Nevertheless, Butcher stated it sells out yearly inside a number of weeks of the reserving opening. They don’t wrestle to fill this journey up regardless of the worth they cost for it.
I requested Butcher in the event that they’d ever thought of providing a extra rustic and fewer luxurious journey, the place riders camped alongside the best way — even with easier meals. He stated that they had, however the permits they’ve for this journey are restricted and really explicit. So, sadly, they’ll by no means provide a dirtbag funds possibility — they don’t actually need to.
And moreover, contemplating the total expertise — the huts, the meals, the campfire music, good dialog, lengthy days driving by means of extraordinarily distant areas, and all the things you study out of your wranglers — that steep value feels fairer.
This is likely one of the most original journeys I’ve ever been on. Whether or not you’re from Colorado or not, it’s one of the vital memorable methods to expertise and see this state. The worth could be so much more durable to justify if it wasn’t such a rattling cool journey.
Bearcat Stables Hut-to-Hut on Horseback: ‘Journey of a Lifetime’
Relying on whenever you e-book your journey, your expertise will differ barely. In July, the wildflowers are exploding within the excessive nation. In August, the wild mushrooms and berries are often plentiful. The seasonality is various regardless that Bearcat solely runs this journey for about 2 months of the 12 months, Butcher stated.
The reserving for Bearcat Stables’ summer season journeys opens across the first week of October. Butcher stated the slots refill shortly, so when you’re , it’s greatest to get on the web site and safe your journey earlier than they run out. Bearcat runs these journeys from July to late August and sometimes do about eight per summer season.
“We simply need to exceed all people’s expectations, and that’s what we’ve been in a position to do over the past 25 years,” Butcher stated. “We don’t have a precise tagline for it. However, it’s a visit of a lifetime, actually.”
