Ice, Alpine, Rock – Will Gadd – Athlete, Speaker, Information

Date: twenty third October 2021

Canadian Rockies Climbing Cycle: Ice, Alpine, Rock, repeat!
By Will Gadd, November 2021

I’m typically requested, “So, what’s the perfect season to climb within the Rockies?” I wrote the next so I wouldn’t need to preserve writing it for individuals.

Huge Image For Guests: The Canadian Rockies are a comparatively slender (about 100K) band of peaks that run alongside the continental divide from the US border north for 1000K or so. Typically they’re fairly dry on the japanese aspect with a strong continental local weather, and considerably hotter and far snowier on the western aspect. Many of the “well-known” ice, alpine, and mountaineering is discovered between the US border (Wateron/Glacier nationwide parks) and Jasper, however there’s a lot north of Jasper to be discovered! The best peak is Mt. Robson at simply shy of 13,000 ft/4000M, however most peaks are within the 9 to 11,000 foot/3 to 3500M vary. Valley flooring vary from 1500M to 800M, so large peaks regardless of low elevations. Typically talking, we’re about one month “colder” than Colorado/European Alps/New England, so a Canadian October is like their November, and our March is like their February and so forth.

The Cycle
Mid-October to Mid-November: Stoke for the Ice Freaks, Soften/Freeze ice season, creeping despair for the Rock Freaks. More and more good ice, usually low avalanche hazard, usually not brutally chilly.
Proper round October 14th the ice season reliably begins within the Rockies on above-treeline North going through elements. This isn’t due a lot to dropping temperatures, however solar angle. In mid-October the times begin to get so much shorter, and the solar simply stops rising excessive sufficient to hit most north-facing terrain. Because of this all of the sheltered above-treeline north-facing terrain (ATNF) begins to freeze, and as soon as the bottom is frozen ice begins forming on high of it. Usually there may be nonetheless loads of moisture, both from springs which are nonetheless working, glacial ice or melt-freeze snow within the solar, so quite a lot of the skinny “smear” ATNF routes are available surprisingly quick. If there’s an excessive amount of water then the latent warmth in it received’t permit it to freeze to the bottom, so the bigger circulate routes don’t freeze till the temperature actually drops.
You’ll be able to nonetheless climb rock on the decrease and south-facing sport and even alpine routes pretty reliably till about October fifteenth, however you’ll have to begin later as in a single day lows are sometimes beneath freezing on the tree-line areas. Sport areas resembling Acephale usually get too chilly round Oct. 14th, however you may push it for those who’re actually stoked. For rock, Echo Canyon, Lake Louise, the Columbia valley cliffs, stuff that faces some model of south is great from about Oct 1 till it’s largely carried out by Nov. 10 or so.
Multi-pitch rock season is just about over round Halloween apart from the occasional day on Yam or different south-facing protected crags. For me the Banff Movie Competition, within the first week of November, kinda marks the tip of rock season. When you’re actually motivated you may nonetheless discover the odd day, however there are means, far more good ice days than rock days. What precisely is in when will range, however by November 10 there’s sufficient ice for good mountaineering and guiding whatever the valley temperatures. Typically you’re in search of north-facing routes above 6,000 ft (1800M). The nice factor is that avi hazard is generally low, however not non-existent: Take gear, and bear in mind that now we have main slides right here in early November. Most of the early-season ATNF Ghost routes are available, that is the time to get them earlier than the smears sublimate into snice or simply fall off by mid-December. Ghost driving is nice (bear in mind you may’t drive into the North Ghost till Dec 1). Kananaskis Nation can also be a very good wager, routes resembling R&D are usually in by October 15 for positive, however it may be actually busy as everybody costs up there. Take the very early or very late shift, I discover this tactic takes care of the worst of the crowds. The crowded situations will appear OK to anybody from Colorado, but it surely’s not so regular round right here. The routes in behind Fortress additionally are available early and are far much less crowded as you must, gasp, stroll! Usually just a few new longer alpine rambles get put in round this time of yr, and for those who’re motivated there’s a LOT to do. The smear routes on the Stanley Headwall, storm Creek, ATNF routes in Safety Valley, and so forth are good to go.
If this have been Colorado we’d have a dozen new routes each October for positive. Not usually in: Subject, something with a touch of southern publicity on the Parkway or elsewhere, most stuff beneath treeline
The traditional “Huge Rigs” usually don’t completely kind up till at the least mid-November, with just a few exceptions such because the Sorcerer, Hydrophobia, The Terminator Wall, and Slipstream. I’ve climbed on the Terminator Wall as early as late October, but it surely’s fairly simple to see if there’s any ice up there, and the way good that ice is you probably have a pair of excellent binoculars. In truth, binoculars are just about important this time of yr… Slipstream can also be usually “in” for those who like high-hazard simple ice in an important place. Early winter generally is a good time to go because the cornice on the high isn’t usually fairly so large as it’s within the spring. However the glacier journey might be extra concerned because of much less snow protecting the gaping chasms…
The Ghost is usually “in” so much sooner than individuals suppose. Routes resembling The Sliver, Burning/Drowning and something between Hydro and Sorcerer typically types up in late October, these routes are surprisingly excessive and face north, it’s chilly up there sooner than would appear logical whereas basking within the solar in Canmore.
The Stanley Headwall is probably going forming up decently by mid-November. Nemesis is normally climbed for the primary time round November 1st, typically earlier and typically later. The benefit of early season on the Stanley is that you could stroll in. The unhealthy factor is identical, snowboarding is much more enjoyable. However little avi hazard.
Hafner, Cascade, something “low” or “sunny” is NOT in.
The “Alpine” is approaching additionally. A number of routes within the Canadian Rockies are finest carried out when the rubble is frozen up, and there’s sufficient ice to get glorious gear. The avalanche hazard is usually low additionally, which implies climbs might be tried in gullies and throughout slopes. that would appear suicidal later within the yr. Soften-freeze routes are at their fattest, usually they are going to begin sublimating and getting thinner by concerning the center of November.
Skis not usually wanted wherever.

Mid-November to Mid-December: Rock carried out, Ice getting GOOD, Alpine ice ON, shitty to poor snowboarding.
Now we’re beginning to get a number of ice selections. Even the south-facing routes alongside the Icefields Parkway (Polar Circus, routes on Mt. Wilson) and so forth. are coming in. Usually Whiteman’s falls is in sufficient to climb, and is wildly widespread till the highway entry closes December 1. The Stanley Headwall is in, and relying on the yr the ski in is going on too. Avi hazard begins to turn into extra of a difficulty, however temperatures aren’t usually brutal so we don’t have a horrendous side layer (AKA “The shite ball-bearing crystal smack down by the grime upon which the whole lot slides and kills individuals). Daylight is a matter—larger climbs are usually began or completed in the dead of night, and also you’ll need good headlights.
For combined/ice cragging, Haffner is in however the creek generally is a ache within the ass, Bear Spirit is coming in, the Cineplex has a good-sized creek flowing down the entrance of it however is OK to climb at relying on the place that creek is working. Don’t climb on the combined routes until the rock actually is frozen, you’ll simply break a number of holds and annoy the locals.
Subject is forming up properly however is usually a bit “later” than equal routes on the east aspect of the Rockies, variable. Usually sufficient in Subject by the second week of December to climb.
That is prime Ghost season; not an excessive amount of snow, most routes shaped, creek crossings generally is a bit concerned because of skinny ice, it’s nice!
New alpine big-rig and traditional strains in Okay-Nation are sometimes carried out this time of yr, the melt-freeze is pretty much as good because it’s going to get, approaches are nonetheless primarily dry or only some inches of snow.
Skis wanted for approaching larger routes alongside the Parkway or the Stanley headwall, however not for the rest. The highway to the Terminator/Golf course shuts, mountain bikes are the best way to go. Strolling as much as the Terminator requires no skis anytime of yr until there’s simply been an enormous dump, by which ase you don’t need to be there!
Mid-December to early January : Nice ice, Alpine carried out, snowboarding poor to OK.
Now the ice routes with a number of water coming down them are coming in or in. Cascade, Takkakaw, Weeping Wall, Louise Falls, GBU within the Ghost, and so forth, it’s chilly sufficient that something shifting freezes up. This additionally means the times are brief and might be brutally chilly; the locals usually don’t exit climbing beneath about -15 Celsius, however guides and Individuals will push it right down to about -35–as soon as. Most likely two thirds of the times are good climbing days, however the chilly is available in “units” of three to seven brutal days adopted by per week or so of respectable climate. We don’t usually get big storms on this interval, however common “dustings” that slowly add as much as a big snowpack. This implies the avalanche forecast and being strong in your avi-hazard judgement is necessary.
Grotto is in too, as is the whole lot in Hafner, good season for combined cragging if it’s not too chilly.
This time of yr a headlamp isn’t only a “good concept,” it would get used, as will the mega belay parka and spare gloves.
Not a lot “alpine” climbing is getting carried out, however typically all of it comes collectively, there have been some good alpine ascents carried out this time of yr regardless of the brief days.
There may be one or two days the place it’s potential to rock climb at Bataan or White Buddha, however the one individuals attempting to rock climb are critical chalk monkeys with out the means to go to Mexico.
Mid-December gives one of many two “finest” occasions to go to the Rockies for mountaineering.
Early January to early February: The Darkish Season . Chilly, darkish, dry, chilly.
All the pieces is in, however the days are brief and infrequently chilly. Folks nonetheless go mountaineering heaps. No one goes mountaineering until there’s a uncommon chinook (foehn). The solar doesn’t make an entire hell of quite a lot of distinction generally, it’s so distant and at such a low angle that it’s virtually irrelevant besides from about 11-2, and even you then’re not getting sunburned. Nonetheless, there are many good days to climb, and everyone seems to be motivated after the debauch of the vacation season.
The avi hazard might be extreme, with quite a lot of rising/persistent issues and huge floor hoar if it does snow. Historicaly, sufficient snow has fallen to be harmful, however usually not sufficient to actually kind the snow pack out or give a very good base. Wind slab, a meter of aspects because the “snowpack,” all of the enjoyable stuff the Rockies has to supply in the best way of snow pack issues are absolutely on show and simply ready for a human, wind, or new snow. Then once more, at -30 it’s bomber and typically it’s all bomber, however that’s uncommon. Oddly, we’ve been having hotter winters and extra snow the final ten years or so. This typically ends in a a lot better snowpack than I’d “anticipate” within the Rockies. Typically, the farther west you go within the Rockies the extra snow there may be and the higher the snowboarding.
Skis usually wanted for something greater than a 20-minute stroll from the highway that doesn’t get carried out a LOT. Polar Circus, Hafner, Cineplex, Whiteman’s, Louise, and so forth. don’t want skis as there are such a lot of individuals getting into. Skis are seldom used anytime of yr within the “entrance” ranges, that means the Ghost, japanese Okay-Nation. However for those who’re in any respect near the BC border/continental divide and taking a look at an extended method then skis are positively wanted. Snowshoes aren’t used a lot right here, they’re actually sluggish and annoying ’trigger they don’t slide downhill for shit. That stated, they are often helpful sometimes.

Mid-February to Mid-March. The solar is coming again slowly! Extra snow, ice nice, not a lot alpine, odd day of rock.

The final week of February or the primary two weeks or so of March is the opposite “finest” time to go to the Rockies for mountaineering. The times are getting longer, the temps cheap and the whole lot is in about pretty much as good situations because it’s prone to get (besides the smear routes, they have been gone in December). Usually the avi hazard works in “cycles,” the place it’s unhealthy after a storm however then cleans up properly. I actually like early March within the Rockies, it’s nonetheless positively winter however the solar is powerful sufficient to be observed, simply feels nice after an extended winter.
The snowboarding is usually superb with an HS of 10cm on the dry japanese entrance ranges of the Ghost to about 150 alongside the Smith Dorien highway in Kananaskis to 200+ within the areas on or west of the continental divide.
Some alpine climbing getting carried out, however the snow makes it a PITA until you want snowboarding to peaks.

Mid-March to mid-April: Ice nice to fading low, snowpack stabilizing, snowboarding nice. Nonetheless “winter,” however the solar is powerful.
The decrease south-facing routes are melting or melted out, and everyone needs to go mountaineering already however the ice and snow are nonetheless actually good. It is a very dynamic time of yr within the Rockies, with heat days and moist avalanches within the afternoon however chilly nights, and it may well nonetheless go to -20 in mid-April. Beginning and ending early on south-facing bigger routes is an excellent concept, get ‘em carried out earlier than the solar slams the ice and loosens the snowpack up within the bowls above the climbs. Be very conscious of the solar generally, large releases in bowls excessive over the large routes are widespread because the day warms up, and even a small “sludge” slide can smash your day. The primary two weeks of April typically produce some actually good winter alpine routes on the larger peaks, however take care because the snowpack up excessive might be “winter” on the ATNF terrain and spring on the south faces. We additionally get large Pacific storms that drop quite a lot of moisture and final for just a few days, then it takes a pair extra days for the snowpack to wash up. However a number of sunny, improbable mountaineering days nonetheless, and rock by no means feels pretty much as good because it does after a season of swinging instruments. Many Canmore locals bust right down to Indian Creek about April 1.
The skiers are beginning to burn out, however April within the Rockies is among the many absolute best months to ski larger strains and do the Wapta and different traverses. The glacial crevasses have their finest protection of the season, a number of gentle, typically nice snow on the north elements, and so forth, recreation on for those who can maintain the stoke!
The rock climbers are pushing the season at Bataan, Grassi, Echo Canyon and on Yam whereas the combined crew is attempting to complete off their tasks earlier than they soften out. The decrease combined areas such because the Cineplex and Haffner are usually carried out by early April.
25 p.c of days are rock climbable, 100% skiable and ice climable for those who’re stoked.

Mid-April to early-Might: Spring down low, nonetheless good mountaineering and nice snowboarding up excessive, typically respectable climate, getting wetter by mid-Might.
Ice season actually must be over, however for those who’re psyched it’s nonetheless recreation on up excessive. Slipstream and Riptide in addition to different excessive ATNF rigs are nonetheless getting climbed, as are many winter alpine routes and a few ice routes till the tip of Might. Rock climbers need heat stone within the worst means, however solely about half the times are going to supply up the products. However not one of the “laborious” cliffs are seeping as the bottom up excessive continues to be frozen, good time of yr for Acephale on heat days or different “seepy” cliffs such because the Coliseum. Yam season for rock. The snowboarding is nice up excessive too, however might be isothermic slop within the valley bottoms.
Be additional conscious of rockfall this time of yr: The bottom is beginning to unfreeze or cycle, and no matter fell on the snow ledges is melting out. There have been a good variety of accidents on rock and ice routes from rockfall as that particles unfreezes and heads down onto rock and ice climbers.
Take care on ice or alpine routes with cornices on the high, or snow that may launch with a bit of heat. Routes resembling Hydrophobia and on the Stanley are sometimes nonetheless good, however the slopes above the routes begin getting solar. Similar with Subject. Respect the solar and rising temps up excessive.
Persons are attempting larger alpine routes and getting some issues carried out, but it surely’s nonetheless full-on winter on the north faces, but even they’re threatened with cornices within the solar and terrain that catches east or west solar. When you’re going after large recreation this time of yr it would shoot again, however some good larger alpine routes have been carried out.

Mid-Might to July tenth: Shoulder “Mud” Season, spring “funk” climate.
Spring mountaineering season is in full impact, but it surely’s higher to exit within the morning generally, afternoon rain is widespread. Much more days are OK than individuals assume, you simply need to get out and go climbing, the odd bathe or one thing is not any large deal. Down jackets are nonetheless getting used commonly.
The alpine climbing is irritating–a number of squalls and normal unsettled to shite climate make it laborious to commit, however typically it’s nice–the snowpack might be tremendous secure up excessive, and is usually laborious sufficient to journey on high of within the morning. Simply very laborious to inform what the day has in retailer from the car parking zone or the forecast (that’s at all times unsuitable by a good margin). It could possibly positively nonetheless be “winter” up excessive till early July, which tends to shock these from the south who come to go to.
There may be nonetheless mountaineering on the true north going through excessive terrain, particularly if it’s shielded from the solar, however you’ll be working for it…
Sport climbers are cursing the seeping rock, however day-after-day is best. The rock at Lake Louise is usually heat sufficient to climb on, similar with dryer routes in Echo and so forth. It may be too sizzling within the solar one minute after which freezing… Yam is nice, however the climate is funky generally. Paddling season is ON.

July 1st to August 1 to perhaps August tenth: Mountaineering season!
Don’t blink, however that is while you need to be out within the larger mountains. Typically good climate with epic lengthy days, rock is drying out, the peaks and glaciers nonetheless have sufficient snow protecting the crevasses and talus for good journey, glacial journey is nice, not an excessive amount of rockfall, simply a good time to be out within the excessive Rockies. Our local weather is certainly altering right here within the Rockies—this “summer time” season used to reliably run a lot later into August, however we’ve had quite a lot of sizzling summers which are shutting down the traditional routes within the Icefields and elsewhere sooner than they used to (no extra snow, skinny bridges on the glaciers, rockfall, and so forth). Though not geographically within the Rockies, the Bugaboos are additionally actually good this time of yr.
Yam and different south-facing rock might be too sizzling however typically nice with an early or late begin to keep away from the solar (for instance, Yamnuska goes into the shade round 2:00, gentle to 10 so a number of climbing).
Decrease-north going through crags in fine condition, most time spent within the shade however nonetheless carry a giant jacket most days.

August 1 to September 15: Forest Fireplace Season, North-facing alpine rock and crags.
That is when the ambiance has lastly warmed up so freezing ranges are usually excessive to non-existent in early August, and the crevasse bridges are getting actually weak really easy alpine journey is ending. Ice faces melting out an increasing number of today additionally. The primary two weeks of August are nonetheless good mountaineering on the actually excessive peaks (Robson, perhaps the Icefields), but it surely’s actually alpine rock and north-facing cragging season. That is when the larger Alpine rock faces resembling Howse, NorthTwin, and so forth. are likely to get climbed. Thunderstorms might be a difficulty so go early and be carried out early, however that is about as secure because it will get in summer time right here within the Rockies. There are sometimes large home windows of excellent climate and minimal rain low or snow excessive. Late August is when the alpine rock routes are sometimes of their finest situation. Acephale and different north-facing sport crags are nice, however too heat for Bataan or Yam or something south-facing generally, though that’s when individuals are likely to climb there. The Bugaboos are likely to see most motion throughout early August, then the BS col snow melts out, rockfall tries to kill just a few individuals and it’s carried out there.
Forest hearth smoke has been an growing drawback since about 2013. If the summer time is admittedly dry to the west then smoke from these fires generally is a actual drawback. You’ll be able to nonetheless crag, but it surely’s not so nice to be up excessive until you get above the smoke.
Paragliding glorious too

September to mid-October: Timber shedding leaves by mid-September, surprisingly good alpine rock.
Onerous rock tasks are despatched, the times are usually sunny, a good time within the Rockies. The ambiance is usually at its most secure throughout September, and the excessive peaks received’t actually freeze up laborious till we get a strong chilly entrance coming by way of. That is “Sendtober,” go mountaineering!
Repeat.

A number of helpful summer time methods: If it’s moist on the east aspect of the Rockies and blowing east within the valleys go to the west aspect, particularly in Might-August. You’ll be able to typically discover a lot better climate over the divide when it’s “upsloping” on the japanese aspect. Upslope winds give orographic rain and so forth. When you’re based mostly within the Canmore space additionally contemplate going north or south for higher climate; it’s solely 3 hours to Jasper, and that’s bought a ton of excellent climbing, flying and paddling, and infrequently has totally different climate. Similar with Waterton and the souther Canadian Rockies, very totally different climate usually.

Helpful Winter Tips: If it’s actually chilly (-20 and beneath) then usually it’s sunny. Go climb on the Weeping Wall, Waterfowl Gullies, GBU, and so forth, from 11-3 within the solar, it may be fairly good within the photo voltaic collectors. Additionally verify the temps on each side of the Rockies–in large chilly snaps it’s normally ten levels C on the western aspect of the Rockies. The distinction between Lake Louise and Subject, though solely 30K aside, can simply be 15 levels C. The higher Haffner zone additionally has a collapse it that’s at all times above freezing. Smells like rat shit, however you may heat up :).

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Tags: alpine climbing, Climbing, Gadd, Ice Climbing, Rockies

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