It shouldn’t have been as simple because it was, however, contemplating how few flies these huge rainbows see over the course of a season, I assume I shouldn’t have been shocked. Positive, the river seems loads fishy, and its options are Rocky Mountain-typical: lengthy runs, undercut banks after which a stretch of aquarium-clear water that flows quietly among the many willows till it dumps into one in all a number of lakes because it programs south and west. However, as the primary sizable, deeply striped rainbow gulped a dimension 12 Adams solid type of nonchalantly to the financial institution, I did a double take.
It doesn’t look that fishy.
Accessible solely by float airplane, this lonely stretch of backcountry river meanders by means of a verdant valley within the northwestern mountains of British Columbia. Right here, within the excessive headwaters of a heralded salmon river, nicely away from the ocean — and usually anything, for that matter — this recreation inhabitants of huge rainbow trout lies in await anglers fortunate sufficient to have a seat on Michael Schildknecht’s Cessna Caravan.
Over the course of perhaps seven hours, we chased these keen, unpressured rainbows — hook-jawed males with luminescent, rosy cheeks and brilliant, flashy hens that appeared like recent steelhead. Fly choice was immaterial, and we threw the whole lot we had at them. Some devoured up dead-drifted mayfly imitations. Others completely savaged large, articulated streamers on the swing. And a pair even raced after mouse patterns skated over quick water.
Every time one other huge rainbow ended up within the backside of Michael’s internet, we’d elbow each other out of the best way simply so we may get look. And, every time, we exchanged befuddled glances and goofy grins.
Picture: Earl Harper.
A blessing and a curse
It’s no secret that British Columbia is fishy. Alongside its western edges, the place the Rockies push north and mingle with the coastal mountains that push into Alaska, the Canadian province consists of two distinct drainages. The rivers that circulation usually west find yourself within the Pacific, and so they’re dwelling to species which might be acquainted to most fly fishers. Right here, the rivers maintain not simply these good rainbows, but in addition a thriving inhabitants of surly bull trout and extra mountain whitefish than you possibly can presumably think about.
Only a hair north, although, the rivers all discover their means into both the Bering Sea by way of the Yukon River, or the Arctic Ocean. Right here, spunky and surprisingly chunky Arctic grayling change the rainbows and northern pike and walleye enter the equation. Lake trout and bull trout persist in each drainages and solely a seasoned fisheries biologist with a minor in hydrology can clarify why.
From the central “dwelling base” of Northern Rockies Adventures on the shores of Muncho Lake, simply off the Alaska Freeway, anglers feast at what quantities to an all-you-can-fish buffet. The homey lodge, owned by the Schildknecht household because the late Nineteen Eighties, is a bustling journey vacation spot, and never only for anglers. However anglers, I think, are essentially the most direct beneficiaries of the lodge’s two float planes — the aforementioned Caravan and an even bigger DeHavilland Otter. Each planes are pressed into service on an almost-daily foundation. In August, the planes ship heep hunters to and from their chosen camps excessive within the Canadian Rockies. Throughout the remainder of the season, they’re busy transporting anglers seeking to pattern the fly fishing hidden amongst towering mountains and the darkish timber.
Picture: Earl Harper.
Anglers are reminded to make their “rainbow day” depend. For these fishing from the lodge, its planes present the one strategy to get there and the lodge’s program solely permits visitors to do it as soon as per journey. The “Rainbow River” would possibly see 4 or 5 anglers per week. Typically fewer.
“We wish to ensure everybody who desires to can get pleasure from that have,” says Daniel Schildknecht, Michael’s brother and a part of the household that owns the lodge. Certainly, by all accounts, the trout fishing at that exact vacation spot is world-class. Protecting it that means is sensible, each for the lodge and for the anglers, who would possibly pine away a winter in hopes of getting one other shot on the fish the subsequent season.
A number of fish within the … rivers
We knew higher than to try to discuss the brothers right into a second rainbow day — guidelines are guidelines. And, truthfully, it labored out similar to it was purported to. The primary morning provided however a style of what was to return. After lifting off the glacial, blue waters of Muncho Lake within the Caravan, it was clear that the every day “commute” to the fishing was going to be unimaginable.
Because the Caravan flew between the peaks of the Rockies, we had been informed to observe for mountain goats on the cliff faces and wild sheep wandering the high-elevation tundra. The realm can be dwelling to woodland caribou, wooden bison and moose, all of which made an look at one level or one other throughout our six-day journey. The realm can be grizzly and black bear nation — and we noticed indicators of the previous and precise specimens of the latter on our sojourns.
Picture: Earl Harper.
However, after all, we had been in it for the fishing. And the fishing was good.
One afternoon, Daniel touched the Caravan down on a hidden alpine lake the place a few skiffs awaited. We hopped aboard the boats and, inside minutes, we’d managed to persuade each a mid-sized bull trout and a small lake trout to hit flies. We motored the boat to the mouth of a mountain creek that flows into the lake, and one member of our group hooked and fought what turned out to be a lake trout that Daniel estimated to be about 12 kilos. Sadly, we by no means bought a terrific take a look at the fish — the angler’s rod snapped on the base because the laker made a last run. When the road went unfastened, the massive char got here unhooked and sulked again into the depths.
Later that day, after wandering down a small river that connects one lake to a different a couple of miles downstream, we managed to nab a few 15-inch rainbows. Whereas combating the final of the rainbows, I observed an enormous shadow seem out of nowhere. The trout related to my chief panicked and sprinted into the shallows, nearly at my ft. The large bull trout that precipitated the commotion adopted briefly however then disappeared into the watery ether.
I launched the rainbow and shortly tied an orange and black “fireplace tiger” Slumpbuster to my chief. On the second swing by means of the run, the streamer stopped in its tracks, and the road pulled tight. A couple of minutes later, we had been snapping photographs of a stunning, wholesome bull trout.
Picture: Earl Harper.
The spice of life
On subsequent flyouts, we spent at some point going after completely gorgeous Arctic grayling, a few of which pushed the 20-inch mark and all of which danced and tumbled over the water as soon as they realized they’d fallen for our flies. Grayling are an underrated recreation fish, probably as a result of the place most anglers encounter them, they’re not very large. However right here, within the wilderness of northwest British Columbia, a “grayling day” is to not be missed.
Indiscriminate dry-fly eaters, the grayling performed ball all day lengthy. To say that it bought downright foolish isn’t an exaggeration — I even managed to coax one grayling into consuming a small Moorish Mouse. And every time a bigger fish would come calling amongst our group of three anglers, the appreciation for these lacy acrobats grew exponentially.
Our last flyout of the journey was dedicated to the area’s ill-tempered predators — northwest BC’s tooth-heavy northern pike. The flight to fulfill the pike was a bit longer than our different excursions, however the surroundings out the window of the Caravan was unimaginable. The craggy peaks of the Rockies slowly gave wave to rolling hills and the boreal forest that stretches from one finish of Canada to the opposite. Scarred with 1000’s of pothole lakes, that is the nation that places the “northwoods” into the ever present northwoods fishing lodge.
Not lengthy after touching down on the glassy floor of a spruce-shrouded lake seemingly in the course of nowhere, we had been casting lengthy, swimmy streamers over froggy weed beds and battling completely respectable northerns to the boat. It was August, and it was loads heat, particularly by Canadian requirements, however the fish had been surprisingly energetic. In different boreal locations, pike are infamous for sulking to the underside of lakes on scorching summer time days, however pike on this explicit lake not often flip off.
Picture: Earl Harper.
Out with a bang
On our final night on the shores of Muncho Lake, as we sat exterior on the deck of our homey little cabin slowly sipping some stable Canadian whisky over a pair cubes of ice, our journey to B.C. delivered its last hit.
It was one of many first nights of the summer time when it was anticipated to get really darkish and but an ambient gentle lingered over the mountain tops. At first, we had been mystified, however simply minutes later the dancing lights of the Aurora Borealis exploded above the waters of Muncho Lake. The Aurora glowed for over an hour and we reveled within the cosmic occasion.
In case you go
Getting there
Anglers visiting northwest B.C. for a fly-in fishing journey can select one in all two methods to achieve the lodge. First, for the adventurous who love a highway journey, the realm may be reached by way of automobile — it’s on the Alaska Freeway about three hours north of Fort Nelson. The second, and the simplest choice, is to fly into Vancouver and spend the night time. The subsequent morning, a consultant from Northern Rockies Adventures will choose you up at your resort and transport you to Pitt Meadows and a small, regional airport. There, you’ll board a small airplane and fly north to Fort Nelson — about two hours. From Fort Nelson, it’s a three-hour scenic van journey to the lodge. However that’s provided that you’re fishing the realm from the lodge.
When to go
The rivers, lakes and streams of northwest B.C. are fishable from June by means of September, and there actually is not any dangerous time to go. Pike and lake trout will likely be extra energetic and in shallow water earlier within the season and once more in September, however each appear to be prepared to hit flies whatever the date. Excessive summer time gives nice dry-fly fishing for rainbows and grayling, and streamer fishing for giant bull trout is probably going greatest in August earlier than the massive char begin to spawn. There are walleye out there from the lodge, too, and for gear anglers, these fish can provide quick motion all summer time lengthy.
Selecting an clothing store
There’s no actual alternative right here. Whereas there’s some glorious roadside and backroad fishing for grayling within the space, to entry the trophy fishing on this stretch of northwest British Columbia, Northern Rockies Adventures is the one actual choice. The lodge gives full seven-night/six-day packages with each four- and six-day flyout choices.
