The east coast of the usA. isn’t the primary place climbers take into consideration when the subject of alpine mountaineering comes up, however it’s residence to a basic American alpine line: The Whitney-Gilman Ridge. The route follows the obvious ridge of granite close to the left aspect of Cannon in New Hampshire. First climbed in summer time 1929 earlier than the period of sticky rubber and dynamic ropes, this esthetic line was climbed forward of its time. The primary ascent staff climbed it in 17 pitches, however it’s now climbed in 4 to 6 with the crux being 5.7 and a lot of the route coming in round 5.5.
The fourth pitch is famously known as the Pipe Pitch due to a set piece of pipe in a crack after an uncovered part. The primary pipe was put in by Ken Henderson on one of many first repeats, however it was later eliminated by somebody earlier than being changed once more. The pipe created a safety level, earlier than climbers had been utilizing cams or nuts, however it could additionally maintain the rope from operating within the crack and over a pointy edge. For the reason that first ascent practically 100 years in the past, locals have stated that some cracks have widened barely.
The climbing is thought-provoking all through and there are good belay ledges however no fastened anchors, so that you’ll must know learn how to construct trad anchors. There are a number of outdated pitons alongside the best way, however you’ll must be good at route discovering to have a profitable day trip. This is without doubt one of the hottest routes at Cannon and it makes an amazing introduction to the realm.
The strategy takes round an hour from the Trailhead Parking on Route 93. It’s advisable to climb it in six pitches, the primary of which begins up a large 5.7 crack. The second pitch follows a flake up enjoyable strikes at 5.5. The third pitch is named the V Groove, because it follows a groove up brown rock at 5.6. The Pipe Pitch takes you up a large crack to a sheltered stance to a ultimate crux, many climbers give this pitch 5.7+ or 5.8. The fifth pitch takes you throughout an apparent slab to a splitter crack and dihedral at 5.5. The ultimate pitch takes you to a different dihedral and to the highest at 5.7.
There are a number of variations all through that may make it more durable, together with the favored various third pitch which climbs an uncovered 5.8 part. Comply with the path to descend. Carry a rack to 3 inches with a set of nuts and a number of other slings for the fastened pitons. You solely want one 60-metre rope, however since there are not any fastened anchors you’ll have to go away gear for those who bail. And put on a helmet.
Whitney-Gilman Ridge is one in all America’s most basic alpine rock routes. Make a visit to Cannon Cliff to expertise among the east coast’s most stout lengthy trad routes this summer time.
10 Cannon Cliff Classics
Lakeview 5.6, 8 pitches
Weissners Dike 5.6, 6 pitches
Duet 5.7, 3 pitches
Moby Grape 5.8, 7 pitches
Union Jack 5.9, 5 pitches
Raven Crack 5.9+, 3 pitches
Sticky Fingers 5.10+, 2 pitches
VMC Direct Direct 5.10+, 9 pitches
Labyrinth Wall Direct 5.11, 7 pitches
Benedictus/Masterpiece 5.11c, 11 pitches
