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HomeIce ClimbingA 130-12 months Historical past of Climbing on Christmas

A 130-12 months Historical past of Climbing on Christmas

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Whereas Christmas Day has by no means been an enormous sending day, listed below are a couple of occasions that occurred on Dec. 25 over the previous 130 years. Within the mid-Eighties, whereas the northern hemisphere was experiencing a chilly winter, New Zealand’s summer time season was beginning. The race to summit the nation’s highest mountain, Mount Cook dinner, had generated a small rivalry. American Edward Fitzgerald and Swiss/Italian climber Matthias Zurbriggen have been travelling to to New Zealand for the primary ascent when climbers Tom Fyfe, George Graham and Jack Clarke heard of the plans.

Early within the morning on Christmas Day in 1894, Fyfe, Clarke and Graham tied the laces on their cob-nailed boots and roped up at their excessive camp. Round midday, they have been nearing the highest of the north ridge may finally see the summit ice cap. The ice was blue and exhausting and the climbers minimize greater than 100 steps to the very best summit in New Zealand for the primary ascent.

Mook Cook dinner

On Dec. 25, 1994, Conrad Anker and Steve Gerberding made the primary ascent of a Patagonian route known as Tomahawk. The lengthy iced-up chimney is 400 metres and hyperlinks into Exocet, which is the traditional of the east face of Aguja Standhardt. Anker and Gerberding didn’t climb to the summit, however in 1997 Laurence Monnoyeur and Bruno Sourzac linked Tomahawk to Exocet and to the summit, the primary full ascent, which took two days.

Canadians Martin Boiteau and Claude-Andre Nadon made the primary winter ascent of Tomahawk in 2002. Within the fall of 2015, Canadian Marc-Andre Leclerc made the primary solo ascent of Tomahawk into Exocet and to the highest of the mountain. A lot of different ascents have been made on Christmas Day, together with the primary ascents of the enjoyable sport routes Hero Worship 5.10b and Laptop Virus 5.12b by Liz and Mike Tupper in 1993 in Pink Rocks.

Sadly on Dec. 25, 1997, at age 39, well-known high-altitude alpinist Anatoli Boukreev died with Dimitri Sobolev whereas making an attempt Annapurna’s Western Wall with Simone Moro. A cornice broke and fell down the couloir they have been fixing. The following avalanche took the three climbers all the best way to camp one. Moro lived by way of the snow slide and was evacuated to Kathmandu for surgical procedure. Moro and Sobolev have been by no means discovered. On the base camp is now a memorial with a quote by Boukreev, “Mountains aren’t stadiums the place I fulfill my ambition to attain, they’re the cathedrals the place I apply my faith.”

On this Dec. 25, the temperatures in Canada vary from -40C to round freezing, which will be nice temps for mountaineering and backcountry snowboarding. Be sure you test the avalanche circumstances earlier than heading at Avalanche.ca.

 



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