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HomeIce ClimbingB.C. Alpine Climbing That is Not the Bugaboos

B.C. Alpine Climbing That is Not the Bugaboos

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With summer time alpine climbing circumstances upon us, contemplate heading to the excessive mountains for some summer time rock adventures. B.C. has a number of the greatest alpine climbing in North America and also you in all probability gained’t run into many crowds, if you happen to select your goal correctly. Whereas the Bugaboos are many climbers’ first possibility, there are another nice selections such because the 5 locations beneath. For 10 ideas in your first alpine climb, see right here.

Neskawatch Spires

There are a whole lot of nice alpine peaks near the coast, together with the Neskawatch Spires. From Alpine Choose by Kevin McLane: “The 2 elegant towers of North and South Nesakwatch Spires are outstanding on the crest of the divide simply north of Rexford’s north summit. The climbs described are quick however ethereal with a really alpine really feel to them, and are all reached from the Nesakwatch creek. Contemplating the quantity of excellent granite, this space receives surprisingly little consideration.” There are a handful or wonderful climbs, comparable to East Buttress of South Spire at 5.9 and Dairyland 5.10d on the west face of the south spire. For more information go to right here.

Rogers Cross

This space between Revelstoke and Golden is understood for deep powder snowboarding, however you too can discover world-class alpine mountain climbing. Discovered inside Glacier Nationwide Park, Rogers Cross is discovered within the coronary heart of the Selkirks. There’s good high quality quartzite on the Swiss peaks, Roger, Macdonald, Uto, Sir Donald, Jupiter, The Camels and extra. Two classics are the Northwest Ridge of Sir Donald 5.4, and the West Ridge of Tupper 5.6. Purchase the guidebook right here.

Valhalla Vary

Valhalla Provincial Park is discovered north of Nelson above the Slocan Valley. The primary peak is Gimli with its many basic routes together with the South Ridge 5.9. In 1972, John Roskelly and Roy Kligfield made the primary ascent of Judy Blue Eyes 5.9 A2, the primary grade VI Yosemite-style huge wall in Canada. Different peaks embrace Asgard, Gladsheim and Nisleheim. The strategy grime highway requires a 4X4. Inside B.C. climbers Cam Shute and David Lussier, together with Chris Rowat and lots of others have introduced an upcoming Valhalla Rock guidebook. You’ll be able to try a teaser right here.

Sonnie Trotter and Mount Gimli. Picture Brandon Pullan

Tantalus Vary

The Tantalus Vary is about 12 kilometres northwest of Squamish, and the peaks are named after Greek gods. The best peak is Tantalus itself. You want glacier expertise, and doing a day journey is just about out of the query. That is rugged alpine terrain that provides some stellar climbing. There are two huts: Jim Haberl Hut and Tantalus Hut. There’s an alpine sport route referred to as Dehdrated on Dalwhinnie on Dione that goes at 5.11b over 10 pitches. Try Alpine Choose by Kevin McLane for more information.

Strathcona Provincial Park

There are a selection of widespread Vancouver Island alpine peaks within the park. One such mountain is Colonel Foster, which will be discovered after a number of hours hike up the Elk River Path. There are a dozen high quality alpine rock routes, just like the 1,200-metre Into the Mystic 5.9. The height has already been climbed this yr, try a visit report right here. You’ll find nice choices in Island Alpine Climbing.

Colonel FosterColonel Foster
Colonel Foster



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