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HomeIce ClimbingInside REI's 'Residing Archive' Classic Gear Museum

Inside REI’s ‘Residing Archive’ Classic Gear Museum

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John Junky knew the beat-up REI Half Dome tent belonged in a museum as quickly because it hit the counter of the Fairbanks, Alaska, retailer. The shopper who introduced it in advised him he’d slept over a thousand nights in it. However lastly, it began to delaminate, and he was prepared for a change.

So he’d come to money in on the model’s lifetime guarantee. Little did he know he’d really introduced a present to the co-op.

That tent was one of many unique manufacturing variations of the Half Dome from 1980. Junky, a savvy REI retailer supervisor, acknowledged it immediately. He couldn’t consider it was in such good situation and he knew precisely what to do with it.

He dialed up the model headquarters to inform them what he’d discovered. From Anchorage, that previous Half Dome was shipped to Seattle, cleaned up, catalogued, and entered into the model’s “dwelling archive” beneath the care of Will Dunn. There it might exist as a historic exhibit, not not like these saved in libraries and museums.

REI living archives
(Picture/Will Dunn, REI)

“The forty fifth anniversary of the Half Dome Tent actually got here to life due to the 1980 Half Dome Tent that we now have within the archive,” Dunn advised GearJunkie. “It led to among the design parts within the new Half Dome redux for the forty fifth anniversary version.”

Dunn is REI’s historian and visible storyteller. He curates the model’s assortment of retro and traditionally vital gear, which it calls the dwelling archive. It’s an inside useful resource for product builders on the lookout for historic inspiration and normal R&D.

The forty fifth Anniversary Half Dome tent is an ideal instance of its perform. REI’s product builders used the archive’s 1980 Half Dome for colour samples and to information their design of the brand new tent.

REI living archivesREI living archives
(Picture/Will Dunn, REI)

The dwelling archive is a purposeful useful resource, positive. However Dunn mentioned it’s excess of that, as effectively. To him, it’s a group of tales — virtually as if each jacket, pair of pants, ice axe, picture, and love letter to REI (sure, these are in there) is a cassette he can pull out and play.

“I really feel so fortunate to have the ability to do that,” he mentioned. “I get to spend my day listening to and studying about these tales and celebrating them.”

Getting into the REI Residing Archive

I received to go to the dwelling archive on a media journey to the model’s Seattle artistic hub. It’s an understated, unsigned brick constructing. In case you didn’t comprehend it was there, you’d stroll proper previous it. Not that you just’d have any purpose to go to, anyway — the REI artistic hub isn’t open to the general public.

I needed to register and get a badge earlier than they’d buzz me in from the ready room.

REI living archivesREI living archives
The surface of the REI artistic hub in SoDo, Seattle; (picture/Will Brendza)

The extent of privateness made sense as quickly as I used to be inside. If Willy Wonka had made out of doors gear as a substitute of chocolate, his manufacturing facility would have seemed related. There have been individuals experimenting with stitching luggage and attire.

In a single nook, a staff pored over colour samples, photographs, and squares of material. And on the far finish of the constructing was the Magnussen lab — the place REI’s mad scientists put merchandise by way of rigorous lab testing.

On the coronary heart of all of it was the dwelling archive. It’s a clear, well-organized space with sliding cabinets decked with a retro rainbow of classic REI attire and outerwear. Photographs and a few tools cling in frames on the partitions.

A big desk within the center serves as a spot for individuals to tug objects from the archive and lay them out for examine — which, in keeping with Dunn, REI Co-op staff members do commonly on the artistic hub.

“It’s form of turn into our little campfire that everybody can collect round,” he mentioned.

However, if it hadn’t been for Dunn and some different REI Co-op staff members, that collective little campfire wouldn’t exist because it does at present.

REI living archivesREI living archives
(Picture/Will Brendza)

Bringing the Archive to Life

Dunn began at REI in 2017. At the moment, he mentioned the archive was an unorganized jumble of packing containers and tools saved in a locked convention room that wasn’t even technically a part of the REI workplace. Individuals had been squirreling away classic objects in hopes of sometime constructing one thing extra organized and extra helpful.

Ultimately, Dunn and his colleague, Hallie Knigge, put collectively a pitch. They introduced it to REI management, and Dunn mentioned, “We received a knee slap and ‘Hell yeah.’”

REI living archivesREI living archives
(Picture/Will Dunn, REI)

That was the start of the dwelling archive because it exists at present. Dunn was put answerable for the gathering, organizing it, cataloging its contents, and caring for it into the longer term. This system formally launched in 2022.

“After we first kicked off the venture, we partnered with the Museum of Historical past and Trade in Seattle,” Dunn advised me.

They labored with a contract archivist to do all the foundational work and to learn to correctly deal with, retailer, and preserve historic artifacts. They ran a listing evaluation and made a collections growth plan and coverage. Principally, the REI archive staff discovered learn how to function like an actual museum.

“These are actually treasured artifacts — no less than to us — and we’re going to deal with them as such,” Dunn mentioned.

A Library of Tales

After I visited the archive, there was a smorgasbord of historic objects laid on the massive middle desk. A picture on a display screen caught my eye. It was a photograph of a tent strapped to the highest of a truck.

“That was REI’s unique wind testing setup,” Dunn mentioned. “It was simply an worker’s truck that they constructed a platform on prime of.”

He defined that somebody could be within the tent with a radio whereas the driving force picked up velocity down Freeway 410 by Mount Rainier. The driving force would relay his velocity to the tent tester, who would then describe what was occurring inside. A passenger would take notes on the alternate.

REI living archivesREI living archives
(Picture/Will Brendza)

“They did that from the late-70s all through 1993,” Dunn mentioned.

A duct-taped Petzl ice axe with the initials E.E. written on the deal with lay on the middle of the desk. Dunn mentioned that had been Erin Parisi’s ice axe throughout her quest to turn into the primary trans individual to climb the Seven Summits.

“Her ice axe has the initials E.E. as a substitute of E.P. as a result of, within the nation the place she was climbing [Pakistan], it was unlawful for her to bodily be there as a trans individual,” Dunn mentioned, so she needed to change her identify on all of her paperwork and even her gear.

REI living archivesREI living archives
Artifacts on the desk of the REI dwelling archive; (picture/Will Brendza)

Then there was REI’s April Fools’ “ZipAll” outfit. It sports activities 3,500 totally different zip mixtures and was jokingly marketed because the “solely piece of outerwear you’ll ever want.”

A protracted picket alpenstock was one of many oldest artifacts on the desk. Scattered round had been varied classic REI catalogs, board minutes from essential conferences, and an enormous assortment of affection letters written to REI by the model’s clients.

Each merchandise had a quantity and a tag, and as Dunn had defined, each single one has a narrative connected to it. This wasn’t simply a powerful assortment of previous gear. It was a library for a few of REI’s most cherished tales.

REI Residing Archive: Accepting Donations (However Not All)

REI living archivesREI living archives
Taking images of the unique 1980 REI Half Dome tent within the dwelling archive; (Picture/Will Dunn, REI)

Little doubt, a few of individuals studying this are excited about all the classic REI gear they’ve been saving that might turn into a part of REI’s dwelling archive.

That previous tent might encourage the colour scheme and format for the most recent mannequin. The classic REI puffy jacket might assist create a brand new line of throwback clothes. Dunn mentioned they even have scientists and researchers who’re writing papers who are available in to review the gathering.

It’s attainable your previous gear might turn into a part of REI historical past. Dunn encourages individuals to succeed in out to livingarchive@rei.com if they’ve one thing that could be of curiosity, like that unique 1980 Half Dome Tent that was returned in Alaska.

However he additionally qualifies that invitation: Taking up somebody’s previous gear is an funding for REI. Dunn is being very intentional about what will get entered into the dwelling archive.

“Like most museums, libraries, and archives, issues are gifted to the [REI] assortment,” Dunn mentioned. “However the true treasure in all of that’s the story that comes alongside it … we’re typically closely influenced by the story that follows an artifact or an merchandise.”

These are the items of substances that REI hopes to gather — those that include epic tales that contribute to the model’s historical past and legacy.



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