Most polyester merchandise dwell a single wonderful life — as a moisture-wicking shirt, hard-wearing daypack, butt-flattering leggings — earlier than possible making their method to the rubbish. There may be some recycled polyester, however in keeping with the nonprofit Textile Change, 98% of it produced on this planet final yr didn’t come from discarded garments.
Former Underneath Armour CEO Patrik Frisk stated he realized this actuality was not sustainable when he was making an attempt to extend the quantity of recycled materials in garments throughout the model’s product line.
“It was a race to be as ‘recycled’ as potential, with out totally understanding the impression of the place this complete factor was going,” he advised GearJunkie. “Accumulating bottles to supply extra polyester cloth was “not sustainable in the long run,” he stated. “I used to be fairly naive.”
Frisk is now the CEO of Reju, a textile regeneration firm owned by French engineering firm Technip Industries. On October 3 of this yr, Reju introduced the opening of its first manufacturing unit in Frankfurt, Germany, the place it plans to supply branded recycled polyester from textile waste that may in any other case be buried, burnt, or dumped.
Then, on the finish of final month, Reju introduced a three-way partnership between itself, nonprofit thrift retailer chain Goodwill, and waste administration firm WM, that may funnel discarded polyester textiles to a future Reju manufacturing unit based mostly within the U.S.
In an interview with GearJunkie, Frisk stated he expects this facility to be operational by 2027.
Reju: Recycling Polyester Attire
Frisk stated he hopes Reju will finally intercept as a lot of the 92 million tons of textile waste produced annually as potential earlier than it reaches the rubbish. This will probably be made simpler in Europe beginning subsequent yr, when a brand new rule requires EU member states to ascertain separate assortment techniques for used textiles.
Even nonetheless, really turning discarded textiles into Reju polyester requires a considerably completely different course of than producing standard virgin polyester from petroleum.
“While you use a uncooked materials like textile waste, the problem is that it is available in many varieties,” Frisk stated.
In idea, the simplest product for Reju to reclaim is a 100% white polyester shirt. Sadly, post-consumer textile waste is a mix of every thing.
“While you begin to combination textile waste, one of many points you have got is time. You may have stuff that’s 40 years outdated, 20 years outdated. We’ve gotten higher about what we’re placing into textiles … however the actuality is, again within the day, issues had been very nasty.”
The corporate has developed machines that make use of optical and infrared applied sciences to kind out materials constructed from pure polyester it could reclaim from these made partly from cotton or different supplies. As soon as every thing is sorted, the corporate removes what Frisk refers to as “disruptors,” components like zippers and buttons.
Then, the fabric is shredded, eliminated of any dyes, depolymerized, and reconstituted. Frisk didn’t affirm if any corporations have signed on to make use of the material. He stated there are conversations occurring, however he needed to first make it clear to the general public that the corporate had constructed out its manufacturing capabilities and provide chain.
However, he famous, a part of Reju’s enchantment will probably be its capability to enhance on the capabilities of the virgin supplies it recycles. Based on Frisk, Reju will have the ability to make use of the teachings discovered by its guardian firm to supply higher polyester than different commodity producers.
“We take out all of the PFAS and different impurities,” Frisk confirmed. “We will create yarns that may be put into materials that may be higher wicking, softer, extra sturdy … there’s loads we are able to do.”
