The style business depends on mental property protections, together with emblems, to guard and distinguish its manufacturers. Likewise, emblems are integral to manufacturers’ id and recognition, from the intertwined “LV” on a Louis Vuitton purse to the purple bottoms of Christian Louboutin pumps. Trademark legislation protects designers’ creations in a aggressive business thriving on knockoffs and provides the model’s representatives a authorized treatment to counterfeiting.1[1]1Sharon Urias, Evaluating Trademark Points in Very Completely different Industries: Trend, Hashish, Excessive-tech, Reuters, November 21, 2022. https://www.reuters.com/authorized/litigation/comparing-trademark-issues-very-different-industries-fashion-cannabis-high-tech-2022-11-21/. Additional, emblems shield shoppers by guaranteeing that once they purchase a bag with “double C’s,” they’re buying the anticipated genuine Chanel purse, fostering coveted model loyalty within the course of. Manufacturers’ reputations might undergo when a third-party trademark infringement compromises that belief.
Motivated by sustainability and affordability considerations, the youthful technology’s purchasing habits have migrated from shopping for designer objects in-store to resale platforms. 2[2]2 Drishti Arora, Shift to Secondhand Trend, Trend Regulation Journal, August 23, 2021. https://fashionlawjournal.com/shift-to-secondhand-fashion/. Nevertheless, counterfeit merchandise have infiltrated this resale system: naïve house owners unknowingly try and resell knockoff objects or intentional infringers hope to revenue from counterfeit items that slipped previous the authentication stage of the resale scheme. Whereas manufacturers have carried out programs to guard towards counterfeit confusion, these should not at all times profitable, resulting in elevated litigation.
ORLI and Stolen Serial Numbers
Chanel, a number one luxurious style home, serves for instance of the significance of trademark and model safety practices. To safeguard product authenticity, Chanel employs an inside file system referred to as “ORLI” to trace baggage at each part of manufacturing.3[3]Chanel, Inc. v. WGACA, LLC, 1:18-cv-02253 at 32 (SDNY). Each Chanel-branded product is given a singular Chanel Serial Quantity and Authenticity Card upon assembly high quality necessities.4[4]Id. at *5. The ORLI system confirms real Chanel merchandise by cross-referencing the product’s colour, sort, and traits with the small print of the real product related to that particular serial quantity.5[5]Id. This methodology goals to make sure a complete verification course of to in the end keep the integrity of Chanel’s luxurious model and stop counterfeits.6[6]Id.
In November 2012, an unidentified particular person stole 30,000 labels, stickers, and Authenticity Playing cards from Chanel’s Renato Corti manufacturing facility in Milan, Italy.7[7]Id. at *4. When serial numbers are lacking or stolen this fashion, Chanel voids them throughout the ORLI System to keep up the safety of its product authentication.8[8]Id. at *5. Nevertheless, that course of didn’t work as anticipated, and the incident precipitated important points for Chanel, because the stolen serial numbers had been then paired with counterfeit items offered as genuine Chanel merchandise, a few of which entered the resale market.9[9]Id.
Chanel v. WGACA
In 2018, Chanel initiated authorized proceedings towards What Goes Round Comes Round (“WGACA”), a New York-based retailer of secondhand luxurious items.10[10]Id. at *1-2. Chanel’s authentic criticism included 5 causes of motion towards the resale model: trademark infringement, false affiliation and endorsement, and false promoting.11[11]Id. Chanel claims WGACA practices precipitated precise confusion within the market, main shoppers to imagine Chanel was affiliated with WGACA and concerned of their authentication processes.12[12]Id. at *35. Market confusion poses a big concern for Chanel as a result of any failure in WGACA’s authentication practices might mistakenly implicate Chanel by doubtlessly harming its fame amongst shoppers.
A few of Chanel’s trademark infringement and false affiliation claims towards WGACA stemmed from the stolen Serial Numbers from the Renato Corti manufacturing facility and the ORLI System.13[13]Id. at *7-8.
These claims revolve round WGACA promoting/providing on the market of 4 sorts of merchandise bearing Chanel emblems.14[14]Id.
A notable concern at trial was the definition of a counterfeit good. Forward of jury deliberation, Chanel objected to the court docket’s jury instruction distinguishing between a counterfeit and non-genuine Chanel branded product.15[15] Temporary re: Jury Instruction on Which means of Counterfeit, Chanel, Inc. v. WGACA, LLC, (2024) (No. 1:18-cv-02253-LLS). The court docket instructed, “[I]f it’s not made in a Chanel-authenticated manufacturing facility, it’s not a real Chanel. It’s a counterfeit if it’s so like a Chanel that it’s onerous to inform the distinction. In different phrases, [a] counterfeit should be a replica.”16[16]Id.
Chanel took concern with this distinction, citing precedent in Chrome Hearts LLC v. Controse Inc.17[17]Id.
the place the court docket opined that “counterfeit evaluation seems to be to the similarity of the marks to find out whether or not enhanced aid is accessible, and to not the similarity of the products or merchandise to which the mark is connected.”18[18] Chrome Hearts LLC v. Controse Inc., 21-cv-6858 (LJL), at 9, 2023 WL 5049198. This definition focuses on the marks themselves moderately than the product’s origin, as emphasised within the court docket’s jury instruction.
WGACA contended that Chanel’s lawsuit impeded the lawful sale of its merchandise and that its use of the Chanel trademark was solely for product identification functions, amounting to nominative honest use, and didn’t instantly suggest affiliation with Chanel.19[19]Id. In its protection towards the
trademark infringement and false affiliation claims, WGACA countered Chanel’s assertion that solely baggage passing by way of the ORLI system may be thought of real.20[20]20 Chanel v. What Goes Round Comes Round: Timeline of a Resale Case, The Trend Regulation, April 19, 2024, https://www.thefashionlaw.com/chanel-v-what-goes-around-comes-around-timeline-of-a-resale-lawsuit/. WGACA asserted that not all of Chanel’s merchandise endure inspection and, consequently, won’t be marked throughout the ORLI system within the first place.21[21]Id. Whereas WGACA moreover argued a number of affirmative defenses, together with laches and lack of an applicable treatment, the court docket in the end disagreed.22[22]Id. at *35. The court docket famous that Chanel acted with out undue delay, thus negating the idea of WGACA’s laches protection and concluding that equitable cures of disgorgement of income or injunction had been applicable for Chanel.23[23]Id.
After an 18-day trial, the jury dominated in favor of Chanel on all claims, awarding Chanel $4 million in statutory damages.24[24] Jury Verdict Type, Chanel, Inc. v. WGACA, LLC, (2024) (No. 1:18-cv-02253-LLS). The court docket held that WGACA acted “willfully, with reckless disregard, or with willful blindness” in reselling these counterfeit merchandise.25[25]Id. In March of 2024, Chanel sought a everlasting injunction and disgorgement of firm income and requested WGACA to show a disclaimer of affiliation and authorization. The second part of this trial will happen on July 15, 2024, to determine the equitable cures for Chanel.26[26] Chanel v. What Goes Round Comes Round: Timeline of a Resale Case, The Trend Regulation, April 19, 2024, https://www.thefashionlaw.com/chanel-v-what-goes-around-comes-around-timeline-of-a-resale-lawsuit/.
Solely the Starting
Whereas Chanel might have received this trial, different trademark disputes persist for the distinguished style home. Chanel is concerned in an analogous lawsuit towards one other well-known luxurious consignment retailer, The RealReal.
Even after the primary sale, resellers should diligently keep away from reselling counterfeit items and be aware of their product branding. Likewise, as discussions of sustainability, the attract of classic merchandise, and purchasing habits of the youthful technology evolve, luxurious manufacturers like Chanel should shield their mental property whereas staying present with traits of secondhand consumerism. On this dynamic market, shoppers in search of the standard and status of a luxurious product by way of the resale market must be cautious to make sure the authenticity and integrity of their purchases earlier than swiping their playing cards.
By: Olivia Dinkins
Olivia Dinkins is a 2026 J.D. Candidate at Brooklyn Regulation Faculty
[1] Sharon Urias, Evaluating Trademark Points in Very Completely different Industries: Trend, Hashish, Excessive-tech, Reuters, November 21, 2022. https://www.reuters.com/authorized/litigation/comparing-trademark-issues-very-different-industries-fashion-cannabis-high-tech-2022-11-21/.
[2] Drishti Arora, Shift to Secondhand Trend, Trend Regulation Journal, August 23, 2021. https://fashionlawjournal.com/shift-to-secondhand-fashion/.
[3] Chanel, Inc. v. WGACA, LLC, 1:18-cv-02253 at 32 (SDNY).
[4] Id. at 5.
[5] Id.
[6] Id.
[7] Id. at 7
[8] Id. at 8
[9] Id.
[10] Id. at 1-2
[11] Id.
[12] Id. at 35
[13] Id. at 7-8
[14] Id.
[15] Temporary re: Jury Instruction on Which means of Counterfeit, Chanel, Inc. v. WGACA, LLC, (2024) (No. 1:18-cv-02253-LLS).
[16] Id.
[17] Id.
[18] Chrome Hearts LLC v. Controse Inc., 21-cv-6858 (LJL), at 9, 2023 WL 5049198.
[19] Id.
[20] Chanel v. What Goes Round Comes Round: Timeline of a Resale Case, The Trend Regulation, April 19, 2024, https://www.thefashionlaw.com/chanel-v-what-goes-around-comes-around-timeline-of-a-resale-lawsuit/.
[21] Id.
[22] Id. at 35
[23] Id.
[24] Jury Verdict Type, Chanel, Inc. v. WGACA, LLC, (2024) (No. 1:18-cv-02253-LLS).
[25] Id.
[26] Chanel v. What Goes Round Comes Round: Timeline of a Resale Case, The Trend Regulation, April 19, 2024, https://www.thefashionlaw.com/chanel-v-what-goes-around-comes-around-timeline-of-a-resale-lawsuit/.