Evan Hau has climbed one of many longest standing tasks in Echo Canyon’s Coliseum, a crag on Grotto Mountain north of Canmore, together with his ship of Queen Been Direct. He’s proposed 5.14d/15a.
On social, Hau mentioned, “I’ve been making an attempt this route on and off since 2015… I revisited the direct begin in 2020 after doing Sacrifice [an Adam Ondra 5.15a in Echo Canyon] and was capable of do all the particular person strikes however troublesome circumstances made it onerous to get high quality time on the route. Lastly this 12 months I attempted to focus in on sending it. I assumed I may do it in April this 12 months, it ended up taking till October however I’m blissful I acquired it carried out. Had some final day vibes and strain as we speak as we fly to Spain tomorrow. I believe the grade is 9a/+ [5.14d/15a].”
Hau, who’s climbed six routes 5.14d or more durable, spent over 50 periods engaged on Queen Bee Direct. On 8a.nu, he mentioned, “I had come shut just a few instances a few month in the past however couldn’t get it carried out between psychological errors, deteriorating circumstances, foot slips. It was principally about staying targeted and retaining the psych alive to consider I may nonetheless get it carried out. I educated onerous for this route all final winter, principally circuits replicating crux sections, as a result of I assumed I may ship within the spring however via the summer time I principally simply climbed exterior.”
Hau plans to go to Spain this winter to mission No Ache No Achieve, a 5.15a opened by Dani Fuerte. In 2022, we reported about Anak Verhoeven climbing No Ache No Achieve, examine it right here. Under is our 2020 interview with Hau after his second ascent of Sacrifice.
Phrases with Hau
What was the very first thing that went via your thoughts if you clipped the chains? It is a two-part reply as there’s a good relaxation decrease down on the route following the principle onerous part after which the issue eases off considerably. I made it to the remainder feeling sturdy. I let loose just a few energy screams within the closing strikes resulting in the remainder. On the relaxation, I had a second of disbelief adopted by a second of “Wow, I truly made it right here, I’d truly ship!”
I attempted to calm myself down to arrange for the highest 5.13c half. Usually I really feel assured concerning the prime part, however it was truly fairly moist that day and I usually keep away from climbing the highest when it’s moist. A soar transfer fearful me however I made it via. There was additionally a spot the place I felt like I’d slip as a consequence of wetness and ended up making a split-second resolution to vary my sequence which was nerve wracking, however it labored out. On the anchor, there was a little bit of reduction that I didn’t screw it up. In fact, I used to be additionally blissful to have despatched and clipping the chains felt wonderful.
What coaching did you concentrate on throughout the covid lockdown? My spouse Sheena and I went via a three-day cycle of power, endurance and relaxation for 2 months with a one week break in between. We don’t have a climbing wall, however we used a mixture of hangboard, free weights, furnishings and body weight workout routines. We did loads of visualization workout routines and I most likely climbed Sacrifice a pair hundred instances in my head.
As soon as lockdown lifted, what number of periods did it take earlier than the ship? I felt so much stronger on Sacrifice this season in comparison with final 12 months so it looks as if the lockdown coaching helped. It took just a few days to get accustomed to the route once more and I used to be capable of go for redpoint makes an attempt instantly if the circumstances allowed. I despatched on the eleventh session at Coliseum this 12 months.
What’s the crux of Sacrifice? The toughest strikes are centred round a clean trying block close to the beginning. It’s a brief compression crux involving intense proper heel hooks. Nonetheless, the actual crux is a 17-move energy endurance part that comes after the toughest particular person strikes on the climbs. Legend is that Adam Ondra skipped three bolts in that part, that are bolts six, seven and eight. I see the enchantment of that, however I ended up clipping the center bolt on all of my makes an attempt.
Adam Ondra made the primary ascent, how particular is it to get the second? After I bolted the route, I used to be undecided if the underside crux was even potential and I couldn’t determine what beta to even attempt. It was tremendous inspirational watching Adam Ondra determine the crux part. It was a motivating and necessary second that inspired me to provide it extra effort myself and gave me a place to begin to start my very own journey with the climb.
How do you are feeling being the primary Canadian to formally be a 5.15 climber? I really feel like I went via the gamut of feelings once I initially proposed 5.15a for Honour and Glory in 2017. This time round, it doesn’t really feel a lot completely different than the same old happiness of ending off a tough mission. I’m actually blissful to have been capable of put this route collectively. It has been an unbelievable journey bolting the climb, questioning if it was potential, lastly with the ability to do all of the strikes, and placing it collectively.
Are there different 5.15 tasks awaiting a ship within the Rockies? Positively. I think the Queen Bee Direct open mission additionally at Coliseum is 5.15 for any contenders on the market. There’re fairly just a few unfinished tasks across the Bow Valley and it’s doubtless just a few might fall into the 5.15 class. There’s additionally monumental potential across the space for additional improvement.
If there was one other 5.15 you’d wish to repeat, what would it not be? Domestically, I’m eager to begin engaged on Battle Membership 5.15b. I might like to discover a good 5.15a for me to mission on a visit. Stoking the Hearth at Santa Linya, Spain is one other dream route of mine.
What’s one of the best hangboard for coaching finger power? I actually solely have two months expertise on a hangboard throughout the covid-19 lockdown, so I’m not a connoisseur of hangboards, however I believe a hangboard which gives straightforward (jugs), medium and hard-to-hang-on-to (lower than 20 seconds with no weight) holds permits a wide range of workout routines to be carried out.
What are some ideas for younger climbers who wish to push their grades? I’ve at all times targeted on the expertise and the journey greater than sending and the grade of a climb. If I’m going to select a mission for the lengthy haul, I higher truly benefit from the climbing. There might be many ups and downs throughout projecting, however so long as I attempt to have enjoyable, I can take pleasure in every time out whatever the final result. Take the time to take pleasure in little bits of development.
