Trad climbing ace James Pearson has made the second ascent of Shikantaza, a run-out trad route in Valle dell’Orco, Italy. The primary ascent was in 2021 by Jacopo Larcher. Learn what each climbers needed to say in regards to the route under.
James Pearson on Shikantaza
I bear in mind seeing the information of Jacopo doing this route and chatting to him about it, afterwards. After we ended up in Orco earlier this yr, I undoubtedly had it on my thoughts to go and take a look at it, however as a result of we ran out of time and I focussed on climbing 29 Dots I ended up not attempting it on that journey. Nevertheless, Shikantaza had been behind my thoughts as one thing to attempt the subsequent time I used to be right here.
Clearly, coming to Orco for the pageant this autumn was the right alternative. It was a busy weekend, between taking care of the youngsters and doing shows/workshops for sponsors, however as a result of the route is so quick and a really fast walk-in from the automotive, it appeared like a practical goal. The route is tremendous accessible, straightforward to arrange a rope on and to work alone. As a result of it being so busy this weekend, discovering a belayer was additionally not going to be an issue.
I arrived within the Valley actually late on Thursday evening and by very first thing on Friday morning, I had already managed to get on the route to determine the strikes and scope out the gear. I managed to hyperlink the strikes collectively and do it comparatively shortly on a top-rope. Even so, I used to be nonetheless a little bit apprehensive about attempting it on the lead, as a fall might have fairly nasty penalties. It feels very very similar to a Grit route, the place it’s actually, actually quick however there’s solely a small part which is especially harmful. Nevertheless, you’ll be able to in a short time do one transfer too many and go from feeling very protected, to all of a sudden realising that in the event you make a mistake you’re going to hit the ground.
I went again later within the weekend, with my good friend Talo Martin, tried it as soon as extra on a toprope and determined to provide it a go. The gear on the route is small ‘micro Associates’ in a reasonably good however barely hole flake, which I feel would maintain. Sadly, that gear is a little bit too low to guard the crux strikes, so it’s additionally potential to put a sky-hook on a better, and considerably extra sketchy, flake. This one would most certainly not maintain a fall, however I positioned it anyway, simply in case it’d.
I actually respect the truth that this route wasn’t bolted (even when it might have been completely acceptable to take action) and that Adriano Trombetta and Jacopo Larcher had the imaginative and prescient to pursue it as a trad line. It’s fairly cool to see a little bit of the ‘British’ trad-spirit filtering into different locations around the globe.
Jacopo Larcher on Shikantaza
Adriano Trombetta found the road years in the past and had the imaginative and prescient of tying to climb it with out bolting it. Adriano was an actual pioneer in Orco the place he established lots of routes and had lots of initiatives/ He tragically handed away in 2017 in an avalanche, however his spirit nonetheless lives within the valley and within the recollections of his associates.
The route is situated on a giant boulder on the base of Sergent. It begins following a sloping rail on a prow to a flake, the place you place some micro cams earlier than setting off for the crux. After a couple of strikes, you attain crimp and kit, the location appears good, however the maintain is a unfastened flake, which might in all probability break in a giant fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with a chunk of wire to a decrease cam.
The following part includes some technical strikes and small crimps and ends with some insecure strikes to a giant flake, the place you’ll be able to lastly place some gear earlier than the better high. The climbing is unquestionably not so exhausting (5.13), however the mixture of insecure strikes and a potential floor fall make it spicy.
I personally actually favored the form of the block and the road, that’s why I completely needed to climb it. I couldn’t have wished for a greater finish of my journey to Orco. I’d by no means had the possibility to fulfill Adriano, however this line is a pleasant tribute to him and his imaginative and prescient. I made a decision to name it Shikantaza a.okay.a. The Tromba mission. I already can’t wait to return to Orco, the place is so stunning and there may be such large potential for brand spanking new strains.
