Following up on their current ascent of The Reward, Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher, have made the second and third repeats of Seventh Path, a 220-metre seven-pitch 5.14b on Drusenfluh’s east face within the Rätikon. Zangerl and Larcher are two of essentially the most achieved massive wall free climbers on the planet, with first ascents and repeats on mountains like El Capitan and Trango Tower to their names. In a press launch, Zangerl shared some ideas about Seventh Path, all of which we’ve included under.
Seventh Path is constantly tough and runs by way of the steepest part of the massif. Whereas we had been engaged on The Reward, we frequently noticed Nemo taking massive falls on this uncovered route… Jacopo and I spent three days on Seventh Path. We labored out all of the pitches and located options for the robust sections, benefiting drastically from Nemo’s earlier efforts. He left his fastened ropes, and the route was already cleaned with seen chalk marks, making our activity a bit simpler. After three days of labor on the totally different pitches, we determined to attempt a redpoint ascent. With 5 of the eight pitches starting from 8a to 8b+, we agreed to method it the identical method as The Reward, considered one of us main all pitches sooner or later, and the opposite the following. To resolve who would go first, we performed rock-paper-scissors. The luck was on my aspect and I received, that means I used to be up the following day.
On Sept. 1, we began early resulting from a excessive likelihood of thunderstorms that day. The primary three pitches had been straightforward, however the first arduous pitch within the steep a part of the wall took all my power; I used to be not absolutely warmed up and barely managed to climb that pitch. My arms had been pumped, and I felt already exhausted after the primary arduous part of the overhang. After a short relaxation, I pushed on, feeling extra assured however nonetheless nervous. I fought by way of a tough boulder downside, solely to fall simply earlier than the anchor of the second hardest pitch. Annoyed! Jacopo lowered me again all the way down to the belay. I attempted once more 45 minutes later and made it to the anchor. Again within the sport. Then got here the crux pitch. It was a large struggle, however I by some means barley made it and clipped the anchor, realizing I nonetheless had a little bit likelihood to ship the entire line that day.With out a lot relaxation, scared from darkish clouds within the sky, I pushed by way of the following 8a pitch, making it to the final pitch because the sky grew darker. I requested Jacopo if he may jumar up as an alternative of climbing to avoid wasting time, as we may hear thunder approaching. Once more no time for a correct relaxation, I started the ultimate pitch, the one I had practiced essentially the most. I used to be assured on that one however actually exhausted as properly. Perhaps it was an excessive amount of of a rush and stress to maintain on going. Once more I fell on the final transfer. I assumed it was over. However then, a miracle—a small blue window opened within the clouds proper above our route, whereas it rained throughout us. After an hour’s relaxation, the sky cleared, giving me another likelihood.
Feeling extra relaxed and eventually after a correct relaxation I climbed by way of the cruxes and reached the highest. It was considered one of my most intense and motivated days in Rätikon—an unbelievable, steep climb by way of the wildest a part of this wall situated at Gelbegg. Thanks, Alex Luger, for this wonderful route. And the largest because of my accomplice in crime for all of the assist through the day and for sharing all these nice moments collectively. Jacopo climbed the route two days later, he didn’t have a single fall. It was an ideal day, we had been tremendous quick, each no falls and we stood on high of the wall already round 2:30 p.m. That was an ideal ending of an awesome summer season, spending plenty of time within the stunning Austrian a part of the Rätikon.
