In 2017 I began calling a fabric environment friendly model of the Quad anchor a “Mini-Quad”. This was constructed from a 120cm, or double size, Dyneema runner with two overhand knots that grew to become welded and have been left in place for the lifetime of the sling. You may learn extra concerning the development and potential makes use of of this model of mini-quad in my unique weblog submit linked right here.
The noticeable drawback of this methodology was after a number of makes use of of leaving these knots pre-tied the over-hand knots would change into fairly tough to untie so the selection was made to depart them in place for the lifetime of the fabric.
After just lately buying a brand new 120cm Dyneema sling I got here up with a brand new model of this mini-quad the place the knots may simply be eliminated to repurpose the sling for no matter use you would possibly want a double size sling for.
I’m calling this the Double Clove Quad (or DCQ for brief). The Double Clove Quad has all the benefits of an everyday Quad and extra. It’s actually quick to construct on the stance however can be pre-built earlier than main a pitch. It supplies Dynamic Distribution between two factors in an anchor configuration. There’s zero Extension ought to one leg fail (in comparison with restricted extension with the standard Quad). When clipping two or three of the 4 backside strands the sling is totally Redundant. In a multi-pitch setting it’s best to clip solely two of the strands so the opposite two strands could be your accomplice’s redundant grasp level.
For many who query whether or not the girth-hitch actually makes these legs redundant I’d refer you to HowNot2s intensive testing that show these hitches is not going to slip till 6kN (roughly 1,400 kilos). Whereas one can argue you would possibly see these forces in a Fall Issue 2 instantly on the anchor there are various methods to keep away from any risk of a Fall Issue 2 so I’m actually not involved about these hitches failing or slipping in regular climbing conditions.
One other benefit is the girth hitches take up much less materials then the double overhangs utilized in my unique mini-quad so it’s a lot simpler to carry two anchor factors collectively at an inexpensive angle with the identical 120cm size of sling.
The one draw back I’ve provide you with utilizing this new rig is I usually used my Mini-Quad as a handy redundant rappel extension. It’s a small draw back as I can now simply undo these Clove-Hitches, particularly when used with “notchless” carabiners, and construct certainly one of many appropriate redundant rappel extensions with my double size runner.
I’m undecided I can declare to be the primary to counsel this methodology. The truth is I feel previous expertise with strategies just like the “Equallette” and another clove-hitch strategies influenced my thought of simply changing these overhand knots with clove hitches. Additionally, a higher fashionable understanding about how safe clove hitches are due to different evolving anchor methods just like the Girth Hitch Grasp Level anchor in all probability helped me arrive at this concept.
Questions? Feedback? Please let me know within the remark part under and I’ll do my finest to reply in a well timed method!
Disclaimer: Anchor constructing is complicated and nuanced. Nobody resolution suits all conditions. Search certified instruction from licensed guides and seasoned vetted mentors. It’s your life. Misinterpreting something right here can kill you. Apply new abilities in a secure setting. Assume all private threat when climbing!
See you within the mountains,
Northeast Alpine Begin
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