My buddy Duncan Tunstall died final month. Duncan lived with an inoperable mind tumour for 20 years, however this by no means stopped him dwelling life to the total. Duncan had big vitality, nice creativeness, and an unstoppable love for journey. He made first ascents within the Karakorum, China and the Alps and climbed nicely over 200 new routes in Scotland.
Duncan joined the North London Mountaineering Membership within the Nineteen Eighties and loved many climbing adventures with Mick Fowler and associates on the unfastened sea cliffs within the South-West. In 1987 he visited the Karakorum with Stephen Venables and Phil Bartlett the place they made the primary ascent of the spectacular Solu Tower (5957m) on the Biafo-Solu divide, simply south of the Hispar Cross. He returned to Pakistan in 1991 and ventured up the little-known Nobande Sobande Glacier the place he made the primary ascent of the West Ridge of Hanispur (c5900m) with Wiz Pasteur and Angus Atkinson.
Different expeditions adopted together with an try on the West Ridge of Nilkanth (6596m) within the Indian Garwhal with Chris Pasteur in 1993, and ascents within the Russian Altai Mountains with Mick Fowler and Paul Allison in 1998. In 2005, Duncan made his most interesting ascent within the Larger Ranges when he climbed the 1300m-high North Face of the spectacular Xiashe (5833m) in Sichuan, China with Ed Douglas. Their new route took 5 days and was the second ascent of the height by only a few days.
Within the early 2000s Duncan was identified with a mind tumour. He determined to go away his job as an oil dealer in London and transfer, together with his spouse Jacqui to Aboyne in Aberdeenshire the place he spent his time volunteering for native charities and exploring the Southern Cairngorms. His need to look spherical new corners quickly led to first ascents on Lochnagar and Beinn a’Bhuird, however Duncan was at all times drawn to the bizarre. He totally explored Glen Esk within the Angus Glens, an space not often visited by climbers. He made the awe inspiring 200m-high Earn Crag his personal with first ascents of Dschubba (V,7) and Excessive Grade Low Grade (VII,8) with Andy Nisbet and Dave Almond – all huge 5 pitch routes on very steep and adventurous terrain. On Craig Maskeldie he added Snowlake Reunion (IV,5) with Stephen Venables and the magnificent eight-pitch lengthy As soon as in a Blue Moon (VII,7) with Henning Wackerhage and myself.
Though Duncan was powerfully constructed, he was surprisingly good on his ft as a rock climber and really expert at ascending unfastened rock. He led me up the primary ascent of Golden Buttress – critical six pitch E3 on Earn Crag with confidence and magnificence. We loved many adventures collectively from climbing sea stacks to searching for out new crags, however our most interesting endeavor was the primary ascent of the SW Spur of Punta Baretti on the south aspect of Mont Blanc in 2009. Duncan was the right companion for this Walker Spur scale journey that was very a lot a leap into the unknown. On the second day, Duncan’s ability with unstable floor was important, and he despatched tons of rock crashing to the glacier a thousand meters under once we encountered an enormous band of rotten schist. We had three bivouacs and Duncan constructed glorious head-to-toe platforms while I cooked dinner every night time.
Nearer to dwelling, Duncan added dozens of routes to the ocean cliffs at Longhaven – a few of the longest on the Aberdeenshire Coast – and from 2008 to 2014 he developed the crags at Vat Burn in Deeside leading to a superb new venue with over 130 climbs. Duncan didn’t lead all of the routes and generously supplied them to his associates as soon as the traces had been cleaned – the record of first ascensionists consists of Andy Nisbet, Mark Atkins, Stephen Venables, Jamie Andrew and Julian Traces. In 2015 Duncan moved on to wash Bellamore Craig underneath the summit of Pannanaich Hill and one other 80 routes had been added to the realm. These Deeside climbs are Duncan’s legacy – his efforts resulted in over 200 routes that will probably be loved for generations of climbers to return.
Duncan was significantly greater than only a climber. He was so vigorous, that at instances, it was each intoxicating and unnerving to be with somebody who didn’t know whether or not the present day was to be their final. Duncan had a fast intelligence and was a stimulating conversationalist. His thoughts darted from one factor to the opposite, typically obliquely and at a tangent, however at all times sharp and insightful. Being in Duncan’s firm was each exhilarating and exhausting, however he was additionally beneficiant and type.
Stephen Venables described Duncan as one of many loudest, bluntest, kindest, most loyal and most provocative companions he had ever had within the mountains. There is no such thing as a doubt that Duncan Tunstall was each a power of nature and considered one of climbing’s nice characters – the world is a lesser place for his passing.
