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HomeIce Climbing5 Tales to Comply with at This Weekend's Olympic Qualifier Sequence

5 Tales to Comply with at This Weekend’s Olympic Qualifier Sequence

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The ultimate Olympic Qualifier Sequence (OQS) is at the moment underway in Budapest, Hungary. The stakes couldn’t be greater, with Paris Olympic tickets on the road. To study extra in regards to the OQS format, opponents, and factors system, learn our in-depth explainer right here. All the main points on how and when to observe the comps tomorrow, Saturday, and Sunday are discovered right here.

It’s not typically that the outcomes of a person comp are so vital. Aside from the Olympics, that is arguably probably the most consequential occasion of the 12 months. There are a lot of fascinating angles to this Budapest OQS, however listed below are the highest 5 tales we’ll be following this weekend.

1. The race between Miho Nonaka and Futaba Ito

There’s a two athletes per gender per nation rule for the Boulder & Lead mixed self-discipline on the Olympics. Japan has already crammed each spots in its male quota (Tomoa Narasaki and Sorato Anraku) and one spot in its feminine quota (Ai Mori). This leaves one spot up for grabs within the girls’s comp on the OQS.

The clear favourites are Miho Nonaka and Futaba Ito. Nonaka, the Tokyo Olympic silver medalist, carried out very nicely on the Shanghai OQS final month, putting fourth and incomes 38 factors. Ito additionally had an incredible efficiency, putting one place behind Nonaka in fifth, incomes 36 factors. With the factors this shut main into Budapest, this last OQS occasion is at the moment neck and neck between the 2 prime Japanese athletes.

Miho Nonaka on the Shanghai OQS. Photograph by Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC.

2. Will mountaineering’s largest stars qualify?

One fascinating factor about comp climbing is that a few of mountaineering’s largest names compete within the occasions. That is significantly true on this OQS males’s occasion. Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, and Stefano Ghisolfi – three of the most effective outside sport climbers on this planet – are vying for his or her Paris tickets.

In Shanghai, Ondra set himself up nicely, putting third and incomes 41 factors. Megos had an honest exhibiting, putting twelfth, which earned him 29 factors. The same efficiency or higher in Budapest ought to earn him his Olympic qualifying spot. Ghisolfi didn’t have the efficiency he needed to in Shanghai, putting nineteenth, incomes 22 factors. With that rating, he’s positively not out of the race but, however he’ll want a greater end in Budapest for his Olympic goals to be realized.

Alex Megos on the Shanghai OQS. Photograph by Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC.

3. Tight competitors on Staff France

The competitors for Olympic tickets is arguably highest on Staff France. No French males have earned a spot to compete within the Olympics but, leaving two spots up for grabs. It’s a decent race between Paul Jenft, Sam Avezou, and Mejdi Schalck. Jenft positioned fourth in Shanghai, incomes 38 factors. Avezou positioned eighth with 33 factors and Schalck tenth with 31 factors. It’s going to be a decent race in Budapest between the three teammates.

In girls’s, the competitors is shut, however not as shut as the boys’s. Nevertheless, there is just one qualifying spot up for grabs as Staff France member Oriane Bertone already earned her Olympic ticket on the European Qualifer. On the Shanghai OQS, Avezou’s sister Zelia additionally positioned eighth incomes her 33 factors. Based mostly on her previous 12 months on the World Cup circuit, she’s arguably the French favorite in Budapest. She’s trailed intently by Manon Hily who positioned fifteenth with 26 factors in Shanghai and Fanny Gibert who positioned nineteenth with 22 factors.

Paul Jenft on the Shanghai OQS. Photograph by Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC.

4. One spot left for a Staff USA girl

Staff USA member Natalia Grossman earned her Olympic ticket on the Pan American Video games final 12 months. That leaves one doable ticket left for a Staff USA girl. In Shanghai, Brooke Raboutou was dominant, putting first and incomes herself an ideal 50 factors. Her closest teammate competitor was Annie Sanders who positioned 14th in Shanghai, incomes 27 factors.

For Raboutou to overlook out on that Olympic ticket, she must place a lot decrease than she sometimes does in worldwide competitors and Sanders must have a breakthrough efficiency, which I’d say is extremely unlikely. Raboutou is likely one of the finest comp (and rock) climbers on the planet. This comp is hers to lose.

Brooke Raboutou on the Shanghai OQS. Photograph by Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC.

5. How will Canadian athletes fare?

Three Canadian athletes are performing on the Budapest OQS: Sean McColl, Oscar Baudrand, and Alannah Yip. In Shanghai, McColl positioned thirty second, incomes solely 9 factors. Baudrand positioned behind him in thirty seventh, with 4 factors. Yip positioned fortieth, incomes only one level. Based mostly on these scores, all three will want spectacular performances with a view to qualify for the Olympics. McColl and Yip specifically have a ton of worldwide comp expertise – they even each competed on the Tokyo Olympics. Will this expertise assist them pull off a much-needed comeback?

Alannah Yip on the Shanghai OQS. Photograph by Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC.



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